Failing to Prepare is Preparing to fail

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Prepping

The World Health Organisation (WHO) has warned there could be 10,000 new cases of Ebola per week within two months.
http://news.sky.com/story/1352857/10000-new-ebola-cases-per-week-by-xmas-who

Ebola the Threat
UN warns Ebola virus currently plaguing West Africa could become airborne
The longer it moves between human hosts the greater possibility of mutation
The risk grows the longer virus is living within the human 'melting pot'
Officials call for 1,000 new Sierra Leone isolation centres to contain virus
British survivor says 'horror' of children dying from disease must be avoided
Will Pooley was first Briton to contract virus after working in Sierra Leone
Thomas Eric Duncan is the first person to be diagnosed in the U.S. 
He flew into Texas from Liberia, touching down in Brussels and Washington
Up to 100 people in Texas are feared to have come into contact with him
Doctors at the hospital in Texas said he was in a serious but stable condition
The UN's Ebola response chief Anthony Banbury, the Secretary General's Special Representative has warned. There is a 'nightmare' prospect that the deadly disease will become airborne if it continues infecting new hosts.
He said: 'in a career working in these kinds of situations, wars, natural disasters – I have never seen anything as serious or dangerous or high risk as this one.'
His comments come as organisations battling the crisis in West Africa warned the international community has just four weeks to stop its spread before it spirals 'completely out of control'.
The number of new Ebola infections is growing exponentially - officials believe the number of new cases is doubling every few weeks, while more than 3,300 people in West Africa have so far been killed.
Save the Children have also warned five more people are infected with the virus every hour.
The Public Health Agency of Canada has deleted information from its official website which indicated that the “airborne spread” of Ebola was strongly suspected by health authorities, amidst efforts by officials in Texas to calm concerns about the first outbreak of the virus in America.
So to CALM the people they remove the warning but not deny that it is or will mutate to being airborne.
My friends I’m telling you it is transmittable through airborne droplets, so if it does become an epidemic in the West you must wear masks.
Think about it, the medical staff wear full one piece protection suits with masks, this is because of their close contact with the infected.
You too could be in contact with the infected but the difference is you “Will not know it”
The only real survival option in this situation is “isolation” and that means preps, water, in fact in real terms you will be bugging-in.
You will have to deny all outside human contact access to you and your family, you will need the very same one full piece protective suit that the medical staff use.
If the government do what they have done in parts of Africa that is to seal off certain areas and enforce a quarantine what will you do then? Will you cope? Can you cope? And for how long.
And if you do not believe me ask the relatives of Thomas Eric Duncan who are being held under armed guard in their own homes.
On the 5th of October a man died in Uganda's capital after an outbreak of Marburg, a highly infectious haemorrhagic fever similar to Ebola, authorities said on Sunday, adding that a total of 80 people who came into contact with him were quarantined.
Marburg starts with a severe headache followed by haemorrhaging and leads to death in 80 percent or more of cases in about nine days. It is from the same family of viruses as Ebola, which has killed thousands in West Africa in recent months.
There is no vaccine or specific treatment for the Marburg virus, which is transmitted through bodily fluids such as saliva and blood or by handling infected wild animals such as monkeys.
The health ministry said in a statement that the 30-year old radiographer died on Sept. 28 while working at a hospital in Kampala. He had started feeling unwell about 10 days earlier, and his condition kept deteriorating. He complained of headache, abdominal pain, vomiting blood and diarrhoea.
Samples were taken and tested at the Uganda Virus Research Institute, and results confirmed the man had the Marburg virus.
Doctors said his brother, one of the people he came into contact with, has developed similar symptoms and has been quarantined in a group of 80 others, 60 of whom are health workers.
Those quarantined came into contact with the victim either in Kampala or his burial place in Kasese, a district in western Uganda bordering the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Marburg has a shorter incubation period of 14 days, compared with Ebola's 21.

Just Some Thoughts on Gear to Carry
Aluminium Foil – The best thing about foil is you can wrap meat and veggies in it, throw it in a fire, and a few minutes later have a hot meal. It can also be moulded into a bowl, cup, funnel, or a pot for boiling water.
It can also be used to enhance an antenna, to sharpen scissors, to make sun boxes for small plants, to collect dew from trees, and in the summer it can be put in windows to keep the heat out.
Baseball Bats – You might plan on carrying a gun for self-protection if the SHTF, but if you’re caught off guard, nothing’s better than a good baseball bat, it never misfires.
Bicycle and Pump, Extra Tubes, etc. – Remember, if, things get ugly, fuel will be unavailable or unaffordable. If you need to travel long distance for supplies, you’ll need a good bike. Make sure to get a mountain bike and not a skinny-tired ten speed.
Sweets – This is mainly for children, but can also be a great comfort food for adults. Just don’t go overboard with it as too much sugar can weaken your immune system.
Cash – If you can afford to, start setting aside a little cash. In most emergency scenarios, people will still accept cash.
Heavy duty bags- Unlike ordinary black bags, heavy duty bags are very thick and sturdy. You can stuff them with sharp branches and debris or use them to drag heavy objects. They can also be used as a poncho, a lean too, an A frame or a temporary patch for a  leaky roof.
Duct Tape – duct tape is awesome!
Floss – Even if you don’t floss, this stuff is great to stock up on as it can be used for fishing lines, repairing tents or clothing lines, and suture material.
Games – In modern societies, people are so used to having constant entertainment and distractions that they’re likely to become very bored if the power is out. But nothing cures boredom like a good board game, or a game of cards. This is especially important if you have children.
Glasses, Glasses Repair Kit – Most people only have one pair of glasses, but what if your glasses break and all the opticians are closed? It’s good to have at least one backup pair and a glasses repair kit.
Glow Bracelets/Sticks – When the electricity is out, the amazing MULE LIGHT range is FANTASTIC https://www.uvpaqlite.com/ You can use them to mark the location of important objects like doorknobs, flashlights and radios. They make a great substitute for candles, and they’re fun for kids.
Hatchet – This might seem like an obvious one, but I know of several people who haven’t bothered to get one yet (especially those living in apartments). Even if you don’t bug out to some location in the woods, you’ll still want to get a good hatchet in case you need to split wood or chop through the bone of an animal. It also makes a good weapon.
Important Documents – Bank account and credit card records, birth certificates, prescriptions, property deeds, registration papers, titles, and any other important papers. You should make photocopies of all ID’s and credit cards. Put everything inside Ziploc bags and keep them in a safe if you have one. You might also want to include cherished photographs.
Map of Local Area – Nowadays people are used to using Google or Yahoo maps and many don’t even have a physical map anymore. It is so importance to have a good map marked with potentially dangerous areas. It can also be used for identifying the shortest, safest route to a friend or relative’s home, a place with supplies, etc. And don’t forget a good motorway map too.
Paper, Pencil, Pencil Sharpener – For playing games, making notes, or keeping a journal (you’re living in interesting times; write about it).
Paper Plates, Cups and Plastic Utensils – In most survival situations, you’ll want to use no more water than is necessary. This is why I think you should get LOTS of these they can also be used as tinder.
Plastic Sheeting – Not just for keeping germs out. This can be used to repair leaks, collect water, or build a makeshift shelter.
Sewing Kit – Another one of those things that has become less and less common in modern society. You should get a decent kit and learn how to sew buttons and patch/mend clothes because new shirts and trousers might be hard to come by.
Snow Shoes – In a disaster, you might be too busy or tried to shovel the footpath so got a pair of snow shoes. You could also use the back of a chair or tennis rackets.
Tarps – There are many uses for tarps: covering firewood, holding debris, privacy screens, shade, tablecloths, tents, lean to’s, A frames etc.
Whistle – Emergency whistles  are invaluable for people who are lost or in danger.
Wire saw – These take up little space and can be used to cut through bone, metal, plastic, and wood with ease.
These as usual are only suggestions and you as an individual will hopefully choose different one to cover your needs.



Further Power cut Advice
As we are so dependent on electricity for everything we do, a long-term power cut can quickly turn from a momentary inconvenience to an outright disaster.

Stop and consider everything you do on a daily basis that requires electricity; Kitchen Appliances cooking, heating or cooling our homes, lighting, running water for drinking, bathing & washing dishes and clothes, refrigeration of food, and communication needs; phones, radio, television and the internet.

And don’t forget about family members that are dependent on special equipment such as a respirator, ventilator, oxygen concentrator, suction machine, medication compressor. 

These are items that can easily be powered by a backup power source such as a generator.

You can greatly lessen the impact of electrical power failure by taking the time to prepare in advance. You and your family should be prepared to cope on your own during a power cut for at least 72 hours .

Also consider establishing a contingency plan for extreme emergencies for members of your household with special needs.

Power Cut Survival Kit

You must make an emergency plan that includes a disaster survival supply kit that includes items you can use when there is a power cut.

This kit should include:

Torches and extra batteries.
A battery-powered radio with fresh batteries.
Water for drinking and cooking.
A portable heater (such as kerosene or LP gas).
Camping equipment such as sleeping bags, a portable lamp or lantern, and a camp stove.
A telephone that does not require electricity to operate Remember cordless phones do not work when the power is off.
Emergency Lanterns or battery-powered torches and lanterns or even wind-up ones are safer than candles, gas lanterns (to minimize the risk of fire).

Don't forget water and food.

During the winter, try to live in one room. Choose the room with the fireplace or one that can be heated easily with a portable heater.

You can install a non-electric standby stove or heater. Choose heating units that are not dependent on an electric motor, electric fan, or some other electric device to function.

It is important to adequately vent the stove or heater with the type of chimney flue specified for it.

If you have a wood-burning fireplace, have the chimney cleaned every autumn in preparation for use and to eliminate creosote build-up which could ignite and cause a chimney fire.

If the standby heating unit will use the normal house oil or gas supply, have it connected with shut-off valves by a certified corgi engineer.

Before considering the use of an emergency generator during a power cut, check with furnace, appliance and lighting fixture dealers or manufacturers regarding power requirements and proper operating procedures.

What to do During a Power Cut

Turn off and unplug all tools, appliances and electronic equipment, and turn the thermostat(s) for the home heating system down to minimum to prevent damage from a power surge when power is restored. 

Also, power can be restored more easily when there is not a heavy load on the electrical system.

Use Surge Protectors (can be bought for around £10 each) It’s strongly recommended that expensive electronics be unplugged during a power cut to protect them from power surges when electricity is restored, but for when you can’t unplug, surge protectors will help prevent damage to electronics like computers and televisions.

Turn off all lights, except one inside and one outside, so that both you and the repair crews outside know that the power cut is over and has been restored.

Don't open your freezer or fridge unless it is absolutely necessary. 

Make sure food stays as cold as possible, by keeping refrigerator and freezer doors closed. 

A full freezer will keep food frozen for 24 to 36 hours if the door remains closed.

Never use charcoal or gas barbecues, camping heating equipment, or home generators indoors. They give off carbon monoxide. 

Because you can't smell or see it, carbon monoxide can cause health problems and is life-threatening.

Use proper candle holders. Never leave lit candles unattended and keep out of reach of children. Always extinguish candles before going to bed.

Listen to your battery-powered or wind-up radio for information on the power outage and advice from authorities

Use of Home Generators

Home generators are handy for backup electricity in case of a power cuts, but must only be used in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines.

A back-up generator may only be connected to your home's electrical system through an approved transfer panel and switch that has been installed by a qualified electrician.

Never plug a generator into a wall outlet as serious injury can result when the current produced by the home generator is fed back into the electrical lines, and transformed to a higher voltage. This can also endanger the lives of utility employees working to restore the power.

To operate a generator safely:

Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Ensure that the generator operates outdoors in well-ventilated conditions, well away from doors or windows, to prevent exhaust gases from entering the house.

Connect lights and appliances directly to the generator. If extension cords must be used, ensure they are properly rated and.

When the Power Returns

Step by Step: Resetting circuit Breakers
Turn off light switches and unplug appliances in all rooms that have lost power.

Find your circuit breaker box and open the cover.
Locate the tripped breaker. Circuit breakers are small, usually horizontal switches and may be labeled (e.g., "kitchen," "bathroom" etc.). 

The tripped circuit breaker will be in the "off" position or in a middle position between "on" and "off."

Reset the breaker by moving it to the full "off" position and then back to "on." That should clear an overload and return power to the room.

If the breaker re-trips, it could be for a number of reasons: too many lamps and appliances plugged into the circuit; a damaged cord or plug; a short circuit in a receptacle, switch or fixture; or faulty wiring.

Identify and fix problems before finally resetting the breaker.

Tips and Warnings

If a breaker continues to re-trip, reset it only when you've corrected the problem, or call an electrician.


When resetting a breaker use only one hand and stand to the side to avoid electrical arc if the breaker should malfunction.

Working with electrical systems is potentially dangerous. If you're unsure of your abilities or about any aspect of the job, call an electrician.

After Resetting the Breakers

Give the electrical system a chance to stabilize before reconnecting tools and appliances. Turn the heating-system thermostats up first, followed in a couple of minutes by reconnection of the fridge and freezer. 

Wait 10 to 15 minutes before reconnecting all other tools and appliances.

Turn on the water supply. Close lowest valves/taps first and allow air to escape from upper taps.

Make sure that the hot water heater is filled before turning on the power to it.

Check food supplies in refrigerators, freezers and cupboards for signs of spoilage. If a freezer door has been kept closed, food should stay frozen 24 to 36 hours, depending on the temperature. 

When food begins to defrost (usually after two days), it should be cooked; otherwise it should be thrown out.

As a general precaution, keep a bag of ice cubes in the freezer. If you return home after a period of absence and the ice has melted and refrozen, there is a good chance that the food is spoiled.  

When in doubt, throw it out!

Reset your clocks, automatic timers, and alarms.

Don’t forget to restock your emergency kit so the supplies will be there when needed again.



Be Prepared… For a Power Cut
Winter is on the way or depending on where in the UK i.e. Somerset, Yorkshire it is already here.

Depending on where you live, experiencing a power cut can range from being moderately inconvenient to a complete nightmare. Being prepared means that a power cut needn’t be a disaster…

Emergency supplies

Last winter there were families in remote parts of the country where a power cut left them stranded for days without heat, light, cooking facilities and hot water. Shops had to be closed and heavy snowfall blocked roads and railways. With a power cut – no matter where you are – can cause real problems.  

Candles can be dangerous, keeping warm is difficult and milk and food may turn rancid. A little preparation is definitely worthwhile.

Here’s an emergency check-list of what you should have in the house:
Candles, minimum four to five dozen.
Candle stick holders. In a pinch, fold aluminium foil around the candle bases 
Matches and disposable lighters.
Emergency heater
Torches and extra batteries.
Canned goods and dry food mixes
Water and juices.
Extension cords, long enough to reach your neighbour’s house.
Hand tools such as hammer, screwdriver and wood saw.
Seasoned firewood.
Extra blankets.
Paper plates, cups and plastic utensils.
First-aid kit
Fire Extinguisher

Remember to keep these things together and in a place where they will be easy to reach and find in the dark. It’s also a good idea to keep some emergency lighting on each level of the house, a lighter with candles should be fine until you can access the torches.

Try to get children used to candles – from distance! Bath-time is a good time to introduce candlelight – it makes a relaxing atmosphere and your child is safely contained in the tub. 

During a power cut you’ll only be able to use them on high surfaces. Do not walk around with a lit candle, use torches instead to get about the house.

During a power cut

You will find the temperature in your home drops quickly. Keep a small baby close to you for warmth, and consider co-sleeping. Toddlers will need extra clothes and blankets at bed times. A torch may make an impromptu night-light.

However even adults will need extra layers of clothes as well as blankets hats and gloves.

Report the power cut to your electricity supplier immediately. They should have a 24-hour emergency telephone number that is on your electricity bill or in the front of the yellow pages. 

Tell them if you have a young children, elderly person or those with medical problems in the house and ask for an estimated length of time.

If the power cut is going to last several days, consider staying with a friend or relative with power. Having no heat or light is going to be, at the best, inconvenient and at the worst, dangerous.

And finally…

Get your family into good habits. Stairs should always be kept free of toys and clutter in case you do end up stumbling around in the dark.



BOB-A Bug-Out Boat
One survival option I have considered over the last year is planning to bug out in my boat. 

Within the survival prepping community there are two major camps, the bug-out doctrine and the bug-out doctrine.

Needless to say each has many variations and are highly tailorable to personal needs and available options. 

I think for many families the bug-in doctrine is preferable, for solo young men probably the bug out.

Being a young lad in the 80’s with minimal financial resources, I was mostly prone to bug out prepping, with the focus largely on skills (as I had a lack of gear or resources to acquire gear). 

Now as an old git l, I face the prospect of seeing my family exist in a growing police state, one where what my children eat, are taught, and medicated would be controlled by the state.

For many of us who see the writing on the wall and are desperate to secure a viable future for our family, there is a perception that any survival prep would be woefully inadequate to sustain a family. 

Of course, the perception of an insurmountable barrier to providing for your family is merely that, a perception in my opinion.

In reality, we can all take small steps to become providers for our families. As I own a boat I continue to ask myself the same question over and over again, will it work, as a BOB=bug-out-boat, I would like to share an option that began as an exotic fascination that may perhaps grow into a viable survival option.

A more detailed analysis could go in depth into the various nuances of boats and how they can be tailored to nearly any survival need, but I think as an introductory analysis it should be approached as simply as possible to encourage feedback and discussion. 

Let’s analyze how a boat can provide the basic essentials for survival: shelter, water, power, and food.

The first requirement would be a shelter. Living aboard a sailboat is not something that is difficult or even out of the ordinary. 

There are many liveaboards in the UK already. Some live year round in their boat, only occasionally sailing to holiday destinations.

Others live on board with the intention of sailing every available weekend. As a survival option the boat can be much cheaper than purchasing a house or land, offers superb mobility, and is as self-contained as any homestead.

A boat for living aboard, roughly 30 to 40 feet can be very reasonably acquired in a sailing condition for around 2,000 to £5,000. 

Sailboats, boats, sometimes get a bad rap for being a money pit that requires more money to operate than should be required. I believe this is a common misconception from individuals who buy boats just like that fourth or fifth car, to use ‘every now and then.’

Then complain when the motor has problems after not being maintained or run for six months. 

A boat is just like any other vehicle or piece of property; it should be maintained and used to have utility. Using a boat as a home would help ensure that needed repairs and maintenance are kept up.

Liveaboards who come from homes on shore to live on the sea, report that boat maintenance is not beyond the scope of home repair on land. 

There are certain things that should be done yearly (cleaning the hull and boat bottom) and some every few months (motor check), not unlike a home. 

The ability to be truly mobile is probably the biggest advantage a boat has to a homestead. 

Is Government coming for your food stores? Do you have ‘too many guns,’ according to the houses of treason? The adage ‘fight or flight’ comes to mind.

Of course many would like to think that fight is the superior option, who doesn’t like to be Rambo sometimes? But in reality, with a family in a world of uncertainty I believe the flight option offers the best security and preservation of lifestyle. 

Should an unacceptable scenario occur where you would fear for your family or lifestyle, one can always untie in the middle of the night and motor/sail for the Scottish islands.

 The second requirement is water. Water procurement and purification is probably the premier survival issue in 99% of situations. 

On a boat: water, water everywhere…. Water procurement would be the easy part, one would just need to take care to only fill tanks with (purified) seawater from offshore, and not near major ports or sea lanes.

The purification and storage are the possible problems. To convert seawater into drinkable water, a boat must be equipped with a reverse osmosis system (referred to as watermakers). 

Watermakers do not run cheap and should not be considered lightly, as with any water filtration system. The ability to turn seawater into clean drinking water provides an almost unlimited supply of the basic necessity of life.

A basic watermaker system for a sailboat will likely cost anywhere from £3,000 to £5,000. I consider this as a necessary upgrade to any boat and should be included in the final cost analysis of a survival boat. 

Of course in addition to the ability to purify the water, the ability to hold it is important. All liveaboard boats have clean water holding tanks that range in size from 25 to 75 gallons. 

For drinking and cooking this is plenty of water storage for almost a week. To keep the watermaker working, a power source is needed.

Generating power on a boat is no different than any other off grid power system. The bonus that boats have out of the box against a homestead is that they have a fossil fuel generator included in the function of the motor. 

With a battery bank, this is enough to power most needs during a short trip.

Similar to onshore off grid systems you can (and probably should) supplement the generator with solar and wind power generation. 

Wind and solar generators are a familiar sight on boats and liveaboards, the prices for such systems can vary widely, but take the same approach one would take with an onshore off grid system.

One must gauge their own power usage and tailor a system to meet those needs. One concern is those with high power needs would not have the space for the requisite battery bank to provide. 

Those with low power concerns could find a boat very attractive. Expect similar costs and concerns with power generation for a boat in comparison to a bug-out location.

The final requirement for a boat is food. Food is a mixed bag for survival minded liveaboards and motor cruisers. The limited storage space creates a problem for individuals who are keen to store much of their food. 

This can be countered though by the relative availability of fish from the sea and fresh produce (often cheaper than on the UK mainland) from many cruising destinations. 

As a fisher and lover of fresh produce, I am more inclined to take the latter option stored. Now given the smaller space on the ship you would need to acquire and use fishing, cleaning, and cooking skills.

This is another important skill useful in many survival situations, remember practice makes perfect. 

The predominant cooling method in boats is the tried and tested ice box method of our grandfathers, still requiring physical ice to cool the box. 

I believe this would be a better option in a grid down scenario, where power becomes a premium.

Coming from the bug out survival doctrine, this is not a huge change from the skills based food acquisition requirements for bugging out. 

The food requirement would require the least amount of initial investment but perhaps the most amount of skills investment.

After considering the four basic essentials for survival and the ability of a boat to provide adequately, I believe the boat should be considered a viable and worthy survival option to many along the costs of the nation, and especially for those with boats moored inland on our extexsive river and canal system

Pirate preppers, seafaring survivalists, please comment and discuss! Is the boat a viable survival option? Leave your text or voicemail on 0044 7825 4062710044 7825 406271



Prepare, Prepare, Prepare NOW
Today, millions of Britons say that they believe that the United Kingdom is on the verge of a major economic collapse and will soon be entering another Great Depression.   

But only a small percentage of those same people are prepared for that to happen. 

The sad truth is that the vast majority of Brits would last little more than a month on what they have stored up in their homes.  Most of us are so used to running out to the supermarket for whatever we need that we never even stop to consider what would happen if suddenly we were not able to do that. 

Already the UK economy is starting to stumble about like a drunken teenager.  All it would take for the entire UK to resemble East London after the bombers had left would be for a major war, a terror attack, a deadly pandemic or a massive natural disaster to strike at just the right time and push the teetering UK economy over the edge.  

So just how would you survive if you suddenly could not rely on the huge international corporate giants to feed, clothe and supply you and your family?   

Do you have a plan?

Unless you already live in a cave or you are a complete and total mindless follower of the establishment media, you should be able to see very clearly that our society is more vulnerable now than it ever has been.   

This year there have been an unprecedented number of large earthquakes around the world and volcanoes all over the globe are awakening and don’t forget the massive flooding we have seen.

You can just take a look at what has happened in Haiti and in Iceland to see how devastating a natural disaster can be.  Not only that, but we have a world that is full of lunatics in positions of power, and if one of them decides to set off a nuclear, chemical or biological weapon in a major city it could paralyze an entire region. 

War could erupt in the Middle East at literally any moment, and if it does the price of oil will double or triple (at least) and there is the possibility that much of the entire world could be drawn into the conflict.

Scientists tell us that a massive high-altitude EMP (electromagnetic pulse) blast could send large portions of the Northern hemisphere back to the Stone Age in an instant.   

In addition, there is the constant threat that the outbreak of a major viral pandemic (such as what happened with the 1918 Spanish Flu) could kill tens of millions of people around the globe and paralyze the economies of the world.

But even without all of that, the truth is that the UK and the EU economy is going to collapse.  So just think of what will happen if one (or more) of those things does happen on top of all the economic problems that we are having.

Are you prepared? 

The following is a list of 20 things you and your family will need to survive when the economy totally collapses and the next Great Depression begins....

Storable Food

Food is going to instantly become one of the most valuable commodities in existence in the event of an economic collapse.   

If you do not have food you are not going to survive. 


Most UK families would not last much longer than a month on what they have in their house right now, in fact I would say that many would be dead by then anyway..  So what about you?   

If disaster struck right now, how long could you survive on what you have? 

The truth is that we all need to start storing up food.  If you and your family run out of food, you will suddenly find yourselves competing with the hordes of hungry people who are looting the stores and roaming the streets looking for something to eat.

Of course you can grow your own food, but that is going to take time.  So you need to have enough food stored up until the food that you plant has time to grow.  But if you have not stored up any seeds you might as well forget it.  When the economy totally collapses, the remaining seeds will disappear very quickly.   

So if you think that you are going to need seeds, now is the time to get them.

Clean Water

Most people can survive for a number of weeks without food, but without water you will die in just a few days, try going without water for 24hrs, I have and I did not like it.  So where would you get water if the water suddenly stopped flowing out of your taps?   

Do you have a plan?  Is there an abundant supply of clean water near your home? Would you be able to boil water if you need to? OH1 and by the way you will need to.

Besides storing water and figuring out how you are going to gather water if society breaks down, another thing to consider is water purification tablets.  The water you are able to gather during a time of crisis may not be suitable for drinking.  So you may find that water purification tablets come in very, very handy.

Shelter

You can't sleep on the streets, can you?  Well, some people will be able to get by living on the streets, but the vast majority of us will need some form of shelter to survive for long.  So what would you do if you and your family lost your home or suddenly were forced from your home?   

Where would you go?

The best thing to do is to come up with several plans.  Do you have relatives that you can bunk with in case of emergency?  Do you own a tent and sleeping bags if you had to rough it?  If one day everything hits the fan and you and your family have to "bug out" somewhere, where would that be?   

You need to have a plan.

Warm Clothing

If you plan to survive for long in a nightmare economic situation, you are probably going to need some warm, functional clothing.  If you live in a cold climate, this is going to mean storing up plenty of blankets and cold weather clothes.  If you live in an area where it rains a lot, you will need to be sure to store up some rain gear. 

If you think you may have to survive outdoors in an emergency situation, make sure that you and your family have something warm to put on your heads.  Someday after the economy has collapsed and people are scrambling to survive, a lot of folks are going to end up freezing to death.  

In fact, in the coldest areas it is actually possible to freeze to death in your own home.  Don't let that happen to you.

An Axe

Staying along the theme of staying warm, you may want to consider investing in a good axe.  In the event of a major emergency, gathering firewood will be a priority.  Without a good tool to cut the wood with that will be much more difficult.


Lighters Or Matches
You will also want something to start a fire with.  If you can start a fire, you can cook food, you can boil water and you can stay warm.  So in a true emergency situation, how do you plan to start a fire?  By rubbing sticks together?   

Now is the time to put away a supply of lighters or matches so that you will be prepared when you really need them, and just to be sure please include a fire steel.

In addition, you may want to consider storing up a good supply of candles.  Candles come in quite handy whenever the electricity goes out, and in the event of a long-term economic nightmare we will all see why our forefathers relied on candles so much.

Hiking Boots Or Comfortable Shoes

When you ask most people to list things necessary for survival, this is not the first or the second thing that comes to mind.  But having hiking boots or very comfortable and functional shoes will be absolutely critical. 

You may very well find yourself in a situation where you and your family must walk everywhere you want to go.  So how far do you think you will get in high heels?  You will want footwear that you would feel comfortable walking in for hours if necessary. 

You will also want footwear that will last a long time, because when the economy truly collapses you may not be able to run out to the shoe store and get what you need at that point.

A Torch and/Or Lantern

When the power goes off in your home, what is the first thing that you grab?  Just think about it.  A Torch or a lantern of course.  In a major emergency, a torch or a lantern is going to be a necessity - especially if you need to go anywhere at night.

Solar powered or "wind up" torches or lanterns will probably be best during a long-term emergency.  If you have battery-powered units you will want to begin storing up lots and lots of batteries.  

A Radio

If a major crisis does hit the UK, what will you and your family want?  Among other things, you will all want to know what in the world is going on.  A radio can be an invaluable tool for keeping up with the news.

Once again, solar powered or "wind up" radios will probably work best for the long term.  A battery-powered until would work as well - but only for as long as your batteries are able to last.

Communication Equipment

When things really hit the fan you are going to want to communicate with your family and friends.  You will also want to be able to contact an ambulance or law enforcement if necessary.   

Having an emergency mobile phone is great, but it may or may not work during a time of crisis.   

The Internet also may or may not be available.  Be sure to have a plan (whether it be high-tech or low-tech) for staying in communication with others during a major emergency.

A Swiss Army Knife

If you have ever owned a Swiss Army knife you probably already know how incredibly handy they can be.  It can be a very valuable and versatile tool.  In a true survival situation, a Swiss Army knife can literally do dozens of different things for you.  Make sure that you have at least one stored up for emergencies.

Personal Hygiene Items

While these may not be absolute "essentials", the truth is that life will get very unpleasant very quickly without them.  For example, what would you do without toilet paper?  Just think about it.  Imagine that you just finished your last roll of toilet paper and now you can't get any more.   

What would you do?

The truth is that soap, toothbrushes, toothpaste, shampoo, toilet paper and other hygiene products are things that we completely take for granted in society today.  So what would happen if we could not go out and buy them any longer?

A First Aid Kit And Other Medical Supplies

On  a more serious note, you may not be able to access a hospital or a doctor during a major crisis.  In your survival supplies, be absolutely certain that you have a good first aid kit and any other medical supplies that you think you may need, and don’t forget any prescription medicine

Extra Fuel

There may come a day when fuel is rationed or is simply not available at all.  If that happens, how will you get around?  Be certain to have some extra fuel stored away just in case you find yourself really needing to get somewhere someday.

A Sewing Kit

If you were not able to run out and buy new clothes for you and your family, what would you do?  Well, you would want to repair the clothes that you have and make them last as long as possible.  Without a good sewing kit that will be very difficult to do.

Self-Defence Equipment

Whether it is pepper spray to fend off wild animals or something more "robust" to fend off wild humans, millions of us will one day be thankful that they have something to defend themselves with.

A Compass and a Map

In the event of a major emergency, you and your family may find yourselves having to be on the move.  If you are in a wilderness area, it will be very hard to tell what direction you are heading without a compass and a map.  It is always a good idea to have at least one compass stored up.

A Hiking Backpack

If you and your family suddenly have to "bug out", what will you carry all of your survival supplies in?  Having a good hiking backpack or "survival bag" for everyone in your family is extremely important.  If something happened in the city where you live and you suddenly had to "go", what would you put your most important stuff in?   

How would you carry it all if you had to travel by foot?  These are very important things to think about.

A Community

During a long-term crisis, it is those who are willing to work together that will have the best chance of making it.  Whether it is your family, your friends, a church or a local group of people that you know, make sure that you have some people that you can rely on and work together with in the event that everything hits the fan.  Loners are going to have a really hard time of surviving for long.

A Backup Plan

Lastly, it is always, always, always important to have a backup plan for everything.

If someone comes in and steals all the food that you have stored up, what are you going to do?

If travel is restricted and you can't get to your "bug out" location immediately do you have a Plan B?

If you have built your house into an impregnable survival fortress but circumstances force you to leave do you have an alternate plan?

The truth is that crisis situations rarely unfold just as we envision.  It is important to be flexible and to be ready with backup plans when disaster strikes.

You don't want to end up like the folks in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina.  You don't want to have to rely on the government to take care of you if something really bad happens.

I do not about here in the UK but for example right now the U.S. strategic grain reserve contains only enough wheat to make half a loaf of bread for each of the approximately 300 million people in the United States.
How long do you think that is going to last?
Now is the time to get ready.
Now is the time to prepare.

The UK economy is going to collapse and incredibly hard times are coming.
Will you be able to survive when it happens?



HOW TO MAKE LYE AND TALLOW SOAP
Soap Making involves three basic three Basic Steps.
1) Making of the wood ash lye.
2) Rendering or cleaning the fats.
3) Mixing the fats and lye solution together and boiling the mixture to make the soap.

First Let's Make The Lye.

In making soap the first ingredient required was a liquid solution of potash commonly called lye.

The lye solution was obtained by placing wood ashes in a bottomless barrel set on a stone slab with a groove and a lip carved in it. The stone in turn rested on a pile of rocks. 

To prevent the ashes from getting in the solution a layer of straw and small sticks was placed in the barrel then the ashes were put on top. The lye was produced by slowly pouring water over the ashes until a brownish liquid oozed out the bottom of the barrel. 

This solution of potash lye was collected by allowing it to flow into the groove around the stone slab and drip down into a clay vessel at the lip of the groove.

Some colonists used an ash hopper for the making of lye instead of the barrel method. The ash hopper, was kept in a shed to protect the ashes from being leached unintentionally by a rain fall. 

Ashes were added periodically and water was poured over at intervals to insure a continuous supply of lye. The lye dripped into a collecting vessel located beneath the hopper.

Now The Fats Are Prepared.

The preparation of the fats or grease to be used in forming the soap was the next step. This consists of cleaning the fats and grease of all other impurities contained in them.

The cleaning of fats is called rendering and is the smelliest part of the soap making operation. Animal fat, when removed from the animals during butchering, must be rendered before soap of any satisfactory quality can be made from it. 

This rendering removes all meat tissues that still remain in the fat sections. Fat obtained from cattle is called tallow while fat obtained from pigs is called lard.

If soap was being made from grease saved from cooking fires, it was also rendered to remove all impurities that had collected in it. The waste cooking grease being saved over a period of time without the benefits of refrigeration usually became rancid.

This cleaning step was very important to make the grease sweeter. It would result in a better smelling soap. The soap made from rancid fats or grease would work just as well as soap made from sweet and clean fats but not be as pleasant to have around and use.

To render them, fats and waste cooking grease were placed in a large kettle and an equal amount of water was added. Then the kettle was placed over the open fire outdoors. Soap making was an outside activity.

The smell from rendering the fats was too strong to wish in anyone's house. The mixture of fats and water were boiled until all the fats had melted. After a longer period of boiling to insure completion of melting the fats. The fire was stopped and into the kettle was placed another amount of water about equal to the first amount of water. 

The solution was allowed to cool down and left over night.

By the next day the fats had solidified and floated to the top forming a layer of clean fat. All the impurities being not as light as the fat remained in water underneath the fat.
You can observe this today in your own kitchen. 

When a stew or casserole containing meat has been put in the refrigerator, you can see the next day the same fat layer the colonists got on the top of their rendering kettle.

Finally The Soap Making Can Begin.

In another large kettle or pot the fat was placed with the amount of lye solution determined to be the correct amount. This is easier said than done. We will discuss it more later. Then this pot was placed over a fire again outdoors and boiled.

This mixture was boiled until the soap was formed. This was determined when the mixture boiled up into a thick frothy mass, and a small amount placed on the tongue caused no noticeable "bite". 

This boiling process could take up to six to eight hours depending on the amount of the mixture and the strength of the lye.

Soft and Hard Soap

Soap made with wood ash lye does not make a hard soap but only a soft soap. When the fire was put out and the soap mixture was allowed to cool, the next day revealed a brown jelly like substance that felt slippery to the touch, made foam when mixed with water, and cleaned. 

This is the soft soap the colonists had done all their hard work to produce. The soft soap was then poured into a wooden barrel and ladled out with a wooden dipper when needed.

To make hard soap, common salt was thrown in at the end of the boiling. If this was done a hard cake of soap formed in a layer at the top of the pot. 

As common salt was expensive and hard to get, it was not usually wasted to make hard soap. Common salt was more valuable to give to the livestock and the preserving of foods.

Soft soap worked just as well as hard and for these reasons the colonists, making their own soap, did not make hard soap bars.

In towns and cities where there were soap makers making soap for sale, the soap would be converted to the hard soap by the addition of salt. As hard bars it would be easier to store and transport. 

Hard bars produced by the soap maker were often scented with oils such as lavender, wintergreen, or caraway and were sold as toilet soap to persons living in the cities or towns.

Hard soap was not cut into small bars and wrapped as soap is sold today. Soap made by the soap makers was poured into large wooden frames and removed when cooled and hard.

The amount of soap a customer wanted was cut from the large bar. Soap was sold usually by the pound. Small wrapped bars were not available until the middle of the 19th century.

Another thought to remember is the soap making procedure described is not only how the homesteading colonial women made their soap. 

Soap making was generally a task the women did. This was essentially the method used by all soap makers of the period. Soap making was always considered one of the most difficult jobs on the farm or homestead.

Difficulties in Making Soap

The hardest part was in determining if the lye was of the correct strength, as I have said. In order to learn this, the soap maker floated either a potato or an egg in the lye.

If the object floated with a specified amount of its surface above the lye solution, the lye was declared fit for soap making. 

Most of the colonists felt that lye of the correct strength would float a potato or an egg with an area the size of a nine pence (about the size of a modern 1p) above the surface.

To make a weak lye stronger, the solution could either be boiled down more or the lye solution could be poured through a new batch of ashes. 

To make a solution weaker, water was added.



What is a BOV, and Do I Need One?
Firstly this is for Paul who texted in last week wanting to know a bit about BOV’s. 

A BOV or Bug Out Vehicle is some form of transport that will take you away from your current location in a time of crisis or distress. Almost anything that will move can be considered a potential BOV candidate. 

That includes motor vehicles, animals, human powered devices or anything that can carry or tow some kind of load.
The next question is "do I need one?" 

The simple answer is yes, it is very likely that you will need something to move you and your stuff around at one time or another. Even if you are well set up in a great location, there may come a time you will need to move. 

I can’t elaborate on what the circumstances may be to make you move, but I can make some suggestions that will help you decide what you may require when that time comes.

Firstly, how many, how far, how much, how often? This is where you start to question what you need to move and how far you need to move it. If it is just one person, and they have a small bag of things, then the demands are not great. 

However, if it is your whole family, and everything goes with you including the kitchen sink, then you will need something more substantial.

How many?

So, how many people are included in the group that are willing and able to move from your established location? Take into consideration that if your group is large, some might not wish to go even if it is against their better judgment.

Some of the group may have special requirements that will take up more space, things that cannot be left behind like medical equipment or wheelchairs.

Also consider that you may even have extra people to move around. You never know what might happen, and if you can make provision for these possibilities, within reason, more power to you.

How far?

Is your new location across the road, across the city, across the county, across the country, maybe even across the world! You will need to identify the location you wish to get to, and what might be required to get there. 

That includes consumables, possible repairs and any chance you might have to adjust your course. Make allowances in your plan to get there via the ‘scenic route’.

How much?

This is what you plan to take with you if you do have to move. If you are in a set location with good resources and a chance of living well, then your absence may be short, until you can return. 

In that case, short term items are of prime consideration, with a few longer term items thrown in just in case.

If you plan to bug out, and stay bugged out, then you will have to take a lot of gear with you. You must make plans to take all that gear with you safely and efficiently. 

You may have to leave some of it behind, or hide it until the time is right to retrieve it. You may have to hide some of your gear beforehand to lessen the burden later on. This must all be considered and factored into your plan.

How often?

Do you plan to move once, a few times or be continually on the move? If it is just once, think about where that one move is going to, and will you have to move again?

If the answer is yes, then your plans for the one move have already failed. Also, if you plan to continually move, will you be able to stay for an extended period in one spot if the circumstance permit?

You must be willing to be flexible in these plans, even if you have no thoughts of going anywhere, it is wise to be prepared ahead of time if the unthinkable occurs and you do have to move.

Different styles of travel require different modes of transport, and the transport you select must be able to follow those plans, or you aren’t going anywhere!

In the end, if you plan to survive for a long time, you will very likely have to move around a little no matter how well prepared you are, as even the best-laid plans sometimes fail.

Whichever way you decide to go, a good reliable BOV should always be placed high on the list of needs, even if it is just as an emergency.





Emergency Action Procedure
Always save yourself first. You cannot help anyone else if you are dead. Nobody else can help you once you are dead either.
Once you are out of further harm’s immediate way, you can try to save the other survivors that are with you
Mental Preparedness
Your mind is you most effective tool and your most lethal weapon.
Believing “it cannot happen to you” is an extremely dangerous attitude. This belief prevents you from rapidly accepting a survival situation as it really is and reacting to it immediately.
You must have the will to survive. If you want to survive, you probably will. If you don’t, you almost certainly won’t.
Physical Preparedness
The more physically fit you are, the better your chance of survival.
Develop the strength and stamina to cope with fatigue and loss of sleep.
Training
Develop excellent safety habits.
Always inform a responsible person as to where you’re going and when you will return before going. If you fail to return or report in within a reasonable time, they can make sure that help will be on the way.
Learn basic knowledge of fieldcraft
How to find or make shelter
How to start, tend and use a fire
How to find and purify water
How to signal for help
How to find food
How to treat common injuries and illnesses
Navigation with and without map and compass.
Mentally and physically rehearse your emergency procedures until your actions in a crisis become completely automatic. This will provide you with strong self-confidence. It will also allow you to perform all necessary actions instinctively even if you are severely injured and are in a half conscious state.
Survival Equipment
Be prepared
The most important survival tool is knowledge. The more you know, the less you have to carry with you.
The only survival tools that matter are the ones that you have with you when there is an emergency.
The more you try to carry, the more likely it is to be left at home.
If you equip yourself with a few small well selected items and always keep this with you, it will significantly improve your chance of survival.
In a survival emergency, you may experience:
Pain.
Reduced capacity from injury or illness.
Extreme cold or heat.
Thirst.
Hunger.
Sleep deprivation, fatigue, exhaustion.
Boredom
Isolation
Fear and anxiety.
Always do first things first:
Remember the Rule of Three’s:
Not thinking – 3 seconds before you die
Arterial wound – 30 seconds before you die
Air deprivation – 3 minutes before you die
Exposure – 30 minutes before you die
Dehydration – 3 days before you die
Starvation – 30 days before you die
Poor Hygiene and Nutrition – 3 months before you die
Loneliness & Boredom – 30 years before you die

Work the problem from the top of the list down!
Immediate action steps
React to warning signals immediately. Sometimes a survival situation occurs with absolutely no warning of any kind. In most cases there is a moment of realization that something is going to happen just before it does. This is precisely the moment that your instinctive reaction can save your life.
Get out of any further harm’s way immediately!
Do not let fear or pain prevent you from doing what you need to do.
Try to get any other survivors out of harm’s way.
Treat any serious wounds you have.
Treat other injured survivors for shock; initiate any lifesaving medical treatment necessary.
Find or make shelter and get out of the elements.
Take stock of yourself, your equipment, and your supplies.
Carefully ration what you have. Don’t waste anything you may need.
Scout the immediate area and plan where and how to obtain more of what you need. Familiarity with your new environment will give you security.
Learn to improvise. If you open your eyes, and your mind you will discover the means you need to help you survive are always around you. Believe in the ends, and the means will show themselves.
Find a source of fuel
Build a fire
Find a source of water
Purify water
Get hydrated and stay hydrated
Prepare emergency signals to get help, if you need it. Believe that you will be rescued but never pin all of your hopes for survival on someone else helping you. Do not stop doing what you need to do in order to survive while you wait.
Clean and bandage wounds
Implement proper hygiene to prevent infection and intestinal disorders
Check casualties for clothing, tools and supplies. The dead have no needs. Remove anything that is potentially useable as quickly as possible. Identify, cover, remove and bury casualties
Never, never, never give up.
Survive, adapt, overcome.
Conserve your strength.
Avoid working to complete exhaustion. Exhaustion causes accidents and leads to fatal decisions. To test for exhaustion. Look up at sky, if it appears to be receding you need to get some sleep.
Take it easy. Rest as much as you can.
In a survival situation, unless there is a medical emergency, saving your energy is infinitely more important than trying to save time.
Only move as much and as fast as you have to.
In a survival situation you must look at the return on investment from everything you do. Always consider EROEI (Energy Returned On Energy Invested). Do not expend an ounce of sweat to get a half ounce of water or 1000 calories to get 800 calories of food. In the long run, these are not sustainable investments.
Stop, Think, Plan, Do, Check, Act
Observe your environment. Nature always provides all of the necessities for survival. The fact that our species has established itself in every corner of the Earth is proof of this.
It takes common sense, knowledge and ingenuity to adapt and take advantage of the resources available.
Learn as much as you can about what or whom you are dealing with.
Each type of survival environment calls for its own special survival techniques.
Think first, act later. Don’t go in haste without goals or reflection. Wait until you are fully conscious of your situation.
A bad plan is better than no plan at all. However, you should not take needless risks. You must keep your plans flexible and continuously adapt to new information and the changing environment around you. Discretion is the better half of valour. If following your original plan will put you in further peril, stop, think back off, and find another solution or way around.
Remember that if you want to survive, you cannot afford the luxury of an accident or a mistake now. Some accidents and mistakes cannot be avoided. Most can. A lot of accidents occur because at a subconscious level, the victim wants the accident to happen. This can be motivated by feelings of guilt, a desire to be punished, to escape some responsibility, to gain sympathy, or to get help from others. Be aware of this threat.
Stay or Walk Away

Determine your position
Determine whether it is better to stay with vehicle or travel for help
Remember that vehicles are much easier for searchers to find than people.
If you stay where you are, someone will eventually find you. The key question is whether or not they will find you in time to save you.
Laying out signals may help searchers and lead to your rescue. If they do not find you, you must be able to cross obstacles and navigate your way to safety.
Do not attempt to travel in severe weather, or if you are exhausted, injured or confused.
Do not separate parties or travel alone if it can possibly be avoided
If you decide to travel, leave a detailed plan with the vehicle
Mark your path as you go so that others can more easily track you and so that you can find your way back if needed.
Make a map and keep a detailed log to help you find your way back if needed.
Travel along watersheds frequently leads to civilization eventually. However, traveling along a watershed typically leads through marshes, thickets, etc. and may easily triple the distance you have to travel. Straight line travel may be best if you know where you need to go.



Prepping For The What Ifs and The Oh Nos!
The flooding disaster that hit the North East and many other parts of the UK this year was bad enough to leave over 80,000 people without power which meant no lighting, heating, hot food, or baths and showers.

These floods happened in what would normally have been our spring time seeing only a fraction of the actual rainfall that fell in such a short period of time.

Without doubt, being prepared for the what ifs and the oh no’s, makes sense.  Whether or not you feel compelled to prepare at the level of those practised by the Doomsday Preppers – a popular TV show on the Discovery Channel, because of their heightened awareness for disasters; 

I believe this group offers a lot of great tips for consideration when creating plans to protect your family and assets.

If a flood disaster were to hit your town today as has already hit many here in the North East, are you prepared at all to hang in there for the necessary time it would take to put the pieces of normalcy back in place?  If not, listen up because that is what this show is all about, helping you get prepared.

I first considered prepping way back in the 80’s when involved in civil defence and other things closely connected to it and it was obvious then that if I survived an attack from the Warsaw Pact then I would need to learn how to survive post attack.
9/11 reminds us that not all disasters are natural disasters, and 9/11 did point out significant issues with disaster preparedness and response, 7/7 brought it home to the British public, who now had to contend with living with people who actually planned to do us all harm, and the realisation that they were vulnerable and that perhaps they too should plan to survive post an attack.

If we are lucky to get pre-warnings, can you be ready to go with all the important things already considered, some basics already packed so you can evacuate on a moment’s notice?

If you had no warning and found yourself trapped where you were, could you hang in there with meals, water, basic first aid and more until help arrived?  If the answer to any of these is no, then you need to start thinking about how you need to protect your family and assets today, because it is not really an issue of IF, but when. 

Disasters can strike at any time, and I want all of you to be prepared.

Prepping involves setting aside resources, and with finances so tight for many, saving in any way, shape or form has become impossible.  That is why I am doing this show now, well ahead of the next heavy floods – to give people time to add a few things to their shopping trolleys as they go along since most can’t just go out and shop for all the supplies at once. 

We can never know what exact disaster to expect, although the risk for some are higher than others. What are some of the disaster risks to keep in mind when prepping?

What do you think realistically are the most generic preparations that a person should have in place to encounter most types of possible disasters?

In flooding disasters, the personal loss is so excessive, and many even lost proof of their identity – loss of your driver’s license, birth certificates, passports and more.  In the planning process, what are some strategies for keeping vital documents safe and within reach for escape?

Now some people have been known to decide to remain in their homes rather than leave when they are warned. Heavy flooding can led to sewage and rats surrounding homes.   

Water contamination, downed trees, power cuts and more.   Let’s talk about having an escape plan, and what that includes.
What if computers were down and basically service came to a complete halt as computers can easily be down because of lack of access to electricity or damage to a location.  With the credit /debit card swipe habit, most of us no longer carry cash on us.

Let’s talk a bit about financial preparation for a disaster.
Sometimes there isn’t a large scale disaster, just personal ones that impact a single family.  These days, zero income homes are a stark reality for some.  It seems to me that the preparations I just discussed for preparing for a financial disaster would have come in handy for those who lose a job unexpectedly, or have to quit a job to care for an ill partner or loved one.

Preppers are prepared to be self-sufficient for up to several years.  However, for those just getting started, let us break down the basic prep into stages of time say:  How much more of the basics I just mentioned do we need to get by for say 3 days?  7 days? Two weeks?

What are the most basic skill sets, if any, listeners should consider getting?

It is said we are only 3 meals away from anarchy, that is approximately one day. 

Preppers talk about this a lot, and so many are secretive about their prepping in anticipation of neighbours and friends becoming aggressive about getting access to your stuff.




Disaster Prepping Hits The Mainstream
I’m not sure when the tipping point occurred, but at some point recently the “prepper” movement exploded and became mainstream.

Preppers are folks who detect the possibility of calamity and decide to increase their odds of surviving it by putting aside supplies. “stocking up” — essential throughout most of humanity’s existence — was common in the United Kingdom up until advances in transportation logistics brought about the “just in time” shipping model.

Suddenly, we could get almost any supplies delivered fresh and year-round to massive community 24 hour supermarkets. What our grandparents called “lean times” became a thing of the past for even the poorest of us.

The expectation that we could always get whatever we wanted whenever we wanted it took a couple of hard jolts around the turn of the 21st century: predictions regarding the “Y2K bug” created a resurgent interest in self-sufficiency, which was further rekindled by the 9/11 terror attacks, the 7/7 London attacks and the foreign wars our politicians have got us into.

A decade later, fears of nuclear terrorism, misunderstood popular views about the end of the Mayan calendar, and ginned-up fears of catastrophic climate change, economic collapse, and violent weather patterns have grown what was once a fringe culture.

Modern prepping has come a long way from the survivalists of the late 1990s. That wave focused on military supplies, weapons, and tactics, and was in many ways limited by their options.

Earlier survivalists had even fewer options — they focused on hoarding and protecting supplies in remote cabins. Yet today’s preppers have a dizzying array of gourmet shelf-stable foods, “green” power options, and even custom-built housing to meet their particular survival needs. Additionally, enterprising companies now cater to nearly every desire the preppers can dream up.

National Geographic’s Doomsday Preppers series featured an episode with prepper Peter Larson, and displayed the work of Paul Seyfried and Utah Shelter Systems. An underground bunker built by Utah Shelter Systems was the core of the Larson family’s preparation plans, and with good reason.

The underground bunkers manufactured by the company and shipped almost anywhere are designed to withstand nuclear, biological, and chemical disasters, and being buried yards underground, they are secure from all but the most determined marauders.

So what kind of person drops a bare minimum of $47,590 on a complete shelter and tens of thousands more on land, installation, and provisioning? Mr. Seyfried fiercely guards the confidentiality of his client list, but will volunteer that it includes “international bankers, hedge fund managers, attorneys, doctors, oil company geologists, business men, and movie producers.”

Like any business, the bunker business has cycles and has seen business expand and contract as events bring awareness of their products. After 9/11, the company experienced an increase in sales in the Northeast, centred around New York. 

Texans have purchased the largest number of shelters, and they range across the Southeast and Southwest, typically as shelters against the common natural disasters that strike the southern part of the country. The most commonly purchased shelter is the $60,750-plus 10′x50′ shelter which offers the best cost per square foot, and customers typically order more bunks to add capacity. 

Most bunkers go to individual families, but there are some small bunker communities of well-heeled preppers coming together for mutual support.

Disasters aren’t the only thing preppers are spending their dollars on. Some look at the economy and prep for the very real possibility of unemployment.

While some might be preparing against floods others might be preparing against drought or unemployment. I think the major thing that connects our customers is a sense of independence and self-sufficiency. They want to be prepared for anything that may be in the future — whether that is a natural disaster, a man-made disaster, or unemployment.

Preppers are also cognizant of the fact that if an event does strike, being prepared is just part of the equation. As we witnessed in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina, even the normally law-abiding will resort to out-of-character barbarism if they think it necessary to ensure their survival or the survival of their families.

The past response to the threat of violence has typically been to acquire firearms, preferably guns with more capacity and range than anyone you expect to be causing trouble. It hasn’t been until recently that the thought of stopping any inbound fire has become socially acceptable. 

A company called US PALM is in the process of changing that by creating and successfully marketing body armor designed for the civilian market.

The media still demeans the more extreme preppers making bizarre preparations for what most people consider unrealistic scenarios — such as polar shifts or the Mayan apocalypse — but with the current global economic situation, the carnage of recent natural disasters, and the fragility of power grids, other scenarios are no laughing matter. 

“Putting things by” like our grandparents did is now regarded by many as a wise investment against uncertain times, and like any market, there are smart businesses willing to cater to this growth market.



Choosing a BOL Location
If your BOL comes under attack here is the priority of defence – Person(s), Water, Food, Fire making, Shelter. 

It may sound illogical not to include weapons in the top 5 however a resourceful prepper/survival should be able to make a make shift weapon.

Accessibility to food and water is critical to a BOL. The strong preference is to have the water and food source(s) within the confines of the actual BOL. If not on the BOL very nearby, since going to get the food/water consumes energy and time. Both will be in short supply once SHTF.

Stored Food – Store food in a location that is at the core of your BOL. The location should be a critical OpSec item and not discussed with anyone that has not been vetted. I highly recommend that your stored food be stored in more than one location. Your stored food location should be temperature controlled if possible (cellar, bunker, insulation, air flow), water proof (or at least the containers the food is in)

Gowned food supplies should be spaced out to conceal the crops, not to mention hide the numbers in the retreat. One can take an educated guess of your numbers based on the amount of food being grown, even the amount of waste being produced.

Raising livestock takes special care when looking for a BOL. One has to ensure proper draining and terrain types for the livestock they plan on raising. My preference is unless the BOL can be well defended stick with smaller livestock that can be mobile such as chickens, ducks, rabbits and goats.

As for wildlife when looking for a BOL look at maps to see surrounding water sources and places where wildlife is likely to be. Also look for signs of wildlife such as droppings, tracks and rubbings. Also talking with local hunters will yield clues of where the local wildlife is.

Water is almost as critical as shelter for survival.

Well Water – Is the best source one can have since in most prepper events the underground water table will be intact. The well needs to be well defended since the well water can be accessed and tampered with in a surgical strike. Also just because it’s from a water table does not mean it’s safe to drink (ask anyone that has had a gasoline leak near their well). If possible strike a well in sandy soil since the sand will act as a natural filter

A creek, river or pond is a good thing to have on one’s BOL (a spring fed pond or creek being the best). The major issue with running water is lack of control since most will run through one’s BOL and not start and stop on it. Also it is not a source you can for the most part locate where it’s tactically sound.

Much like stored food, make sure it’s in a core location. Also make sure the container that you are using is designed for long term liquid storage and if possible use layered storage methods so if one layer is breached the other layer keeps the water/food intact.

This is a large and vague topic, the main reason is how Defendable a BOL is depend on so many factors and is heavily dependent on the person as well. In general you want a location in which access can be controlled, in a location that is off the main path or blends in well with the environment. 

Also something that would de-tract from the area is useful (like having an apartment a couple of blocks from a megastore, looters are more likely to target the megastore before targeting the apartment).

If you are low on manpower the object will be to make the BOL as shabby and unoccupied as possible. If you have the manpower then you want to do the opposite and make the BOL as foreboding as possible. 

A hill is a double edged sword in that it makes one able to see a greater distance however bad guys can see the BOL from a greater distance.



Starting a Vegetable Garden From Scratch
I am not a gardener but my mate John is- Thanks John
If you've ever thought of starting a vegetable garden from scratch then start well here is how.  I will tell you everything you need to know about starting your first veg plot.

Is your back garden just a waste of space or do you have a few square feet with potential? Are you past the stage of needing a big lawn for football and could you reclaim some of it for vegetable beds? 

If none of this applies, are there some allotments nearby, or, as a starting point, do you have room for a few big pots on a terrace, balcony or window ledge?

There are few more balancing and rewarding ways to spend an hour or two a week than growing even a little of your own vegetables. Let this be the year when you start to grow your own – it will then almost certainly become a lifetime's habit.

Over the years I've been growing veg, certain plants and varieties have emerged clearly as front runners in the time/reward ratio. They are quick and easy to grow, so that with little or no gardening experience, they still do well and go on to form the basis of hundreds of free and delicious meals over the next few months with very little sweat. This exercise is not about growing every single edible plant you and your family eat.
You should continue to buy the things that are tricky, or need too much TLC (such as red peppers and aubergines), or that take up tons of room for months at a stretch and then only give you a minimal harvest (eg Brussels sprouts, main crop potatoes and parsnips).
These are the crops of the devoted, almost full-time veg grower with lots of space, not high-priority plants for those of us who prefer to dip in and out of a vegetable patch, with almost instant rewards and abundant, self-perpetuating harvests.

The key here is to choose as many cut-and-come-again plants as possible, which you can harvest from on a Monday for supper and, by the following Monday, will have grown back with more for you to eat,

Even if you've never sown a packet of seed before, you'll be bringing in baskets of salad, herbs and veg from just outside your back door in a few weeks. I'll try to cover all the basics about site and soil, as well as what to grow.  I'll cover where to put the patch and how to clear the ground, getting rid of lawn or weeds, and then how to keep on top of the weeds once the plot is cleared.

Then I'll cover how to structure the space, giving a simple and flexible layout and help you work out whether to create raised beds or not, and what to do with the soil. I will also include companion planting (mixing two plants closely together for beneficial effect) and tips on how to make your productive patch look good. Well planned, these abundant plots are often the best-looking areas of a garden.

Go out into the garden and work out the best possible place for your plot. If you have the choice, it's good to grow veg in the kind of sunny, sheltered spot where you might want to sunbathe. Most of the plants going into the patch are annuals. 

They are working with a short timescale and need to grow rapidly. To enable them to put on this performance, they need all the help they can get and plenty of food to fuel this growing process. That's only possible in full sun, so avoid overhanging trees and shade-throwing sheds and buildings as far as possible.

As well as sun, many plants such as tomatoes and cucumbers need shelter from the wind. They won't grow well if rocked at their roots and their leaves will blacken with wind burn.

Try fencing panels, hurdles or even think of planting a permanent hedge on the windy, western side of the plot. These will give the more delicate plants a chance of survival outside. 

If you can't find hurdles, use a few straw bales for instant effect. These provide a cheap, but perfect temporary wind break, which can be removed once the worst of the spring winds are over in early May.

It's worth knowing that a wind break will protect an area about five times its height, so a two-metre hurdle protects for 10 metres.

With an intensive patch like this, make sure you clear the soil of perennial and annual weeds before you plant.

If you want to be 100 per cent organic, you'll need to clear the grass (stack the turf somewhere upside down and it will compost into beautiful top soil which you can put back into the beds in a few months), then carefully dig it over, meticulously making sure you've got rid of any roots of the nightmare invasive perennial weeds such as marestail (which looks like a one-stem fir tree), couch grass, Japanese knotweed which is (tall, green and pink stems looking slightly like rhubarb as it emerges), bindweed which has (bright green, shield-shaped leaves and white trumpet flowers) or ground elder (like a large flat-leaved parsley with mini, white, cow-parsley-like flowers).

To be sure of eliminating these (and if you're prepared to go the non-organic route), try spraying them off with glyphosate (found in systemic weed killers) available at any garden centre.

Mix this to the recommended strength on the back of the pack and on a very still day, very carefully spray off your patch, laying weighted-down plastic sheeting around it to prevent any drift onto the surrounding grass or flower beds. Leave it for two weeks or until any green has browned, then dig over the ground.

If the perennial weeds are already cleared and only annual weeds (for example, groundsel, with yellow flowers, bittercress with white flowers and cress-tasting leaves, speedwell with pretty blue saucer flowers), are your problem, it's a good idea to cover the patch for a couple of weeks in early spring.

This helps warm the soil so you can plant or sow a couple of weeks earlier than if you left the patch open to the elements. Use sheets of clear plastic. It warms and dries the soil, and – transparent – encourages the germination of any dormant weed seed.

When you uncover the patch to plant, these are easily cleared by hand or hoe and you will have a weed-seed-free bed.
The other key thing with weed control is to use a carpet of mulch to prevent any weed seed that drifts in from germinating in your soil.

As you plant out your seedlings, lay a good 2in of mulch (cheap municipal compost available from many town councils, mushroom compost or leaf mould) in between your rows. This should make your patch relatively weed-free through the summer and so easier to maintain.



PREPARING TO SURVIVE THE COMING COLLAPSE

A friend of mine with as you would say “a few bob”, asked my opinion on what he should do with his cash now that he is pulling it out of the markets. 

My reply was simple: start preparing yourself and your family to be self-sufficient. I’m far from being a doomsayer, but it is now no longer whether hard times are coming, it’s simply a matter of when.

You can’t borrow yourself out of debt, and no matter how much you try to nationalize financial institutions and throw good money after bad, market forces and past mistakes that were not allowed to play out, as free markets should, will eventually collect their toll.

The more money the bank of England prints to “save us,” the worse inflation will be down the road. Couple all of that with a government that wants to redistribute wealth that’s not theirs to play with, and we could have the making of a disaster, the likes of which we’ve never seen

One thing’s for sure: this crisis has shocked a lot of people into the real world, and they’re no longer listening to idiotic advice from talking heads. Nowadays, learning how to survive literally is taking precedence over learning how to survive the downturn of their 50(k).

The survival food industry is booming, training is on the increase. In the mid-90s, the politicians and news media labelled the self defence advocates and survivalists and Preppers as “kooks” and “conspiracy nuts.”

Nowadays, the white collar businessman is joining that mind-set, buying dehydrated food and not trusting the government to assure his survival. The populace is scared and asking “what should we do,” but no one is really responding to them on a level they can understand.

This article is not intended to be a long-term survival plan, since that will vary with the location, skill level and special circumstances of the people involved. It is, however, a survival plan that will get you through the initial stages of a crisis, since this period always seems to be the most dangerous.

Forget about buying gold and silver with your cash. Gold is a good investment against inflation but a poor provider of calories. It’s even harder to trade for usable goods, since the average person knows little about it, I would say.

The number-one priority should be buying food that can be stored safely for a period of time. Dehydrated food and canned goods are the way to go, since they don’t require power to keep them from spoiling when properly rotated. How much should you buy? The “survivalist” standard is a one year’s supply of food for those you intend to feed. That’s a lot of food, and I’m not sure you will actually need that much to make it through the most dangerous times of a crisis.

The main things we’re worried about in the coming months (years) are 1) inflation driving food prices high, 2) sporadic food shortages due to panic (as seen recently in Iceland), and 3) a hunger-based increase in crime.

So, I suggest a minimum of 3 to 6 months’ supply of food for those who cannot sustain themselves from their own land with established gardens and crops. If you can afford more, then by all means buy more, since a proper food storage program means never wasting and always rotating.

Whatever you do, DO NOT let anyone know about your food storage program or where it’s located.

It is also wise to have potable water stored in case there’s a disruption to your community’s water source or power grid. Plastic water storage barrels and common bleach for purification are the best route. Do not use your potable water for bathing. In a crisis it should be saved for drinking purposes only.

Hands can be cleaned and sanitized using alcohol or first-aid hand cleaners. Water from suspect sources can be boiled for cooking purposes and to replenish your potable water. It should also be noted that almost every home has at least 40 gallons of water already stored in their hot water heater.

You should take an inventory of your first-aid cabinet and get at least a six-month supply of your prescription medications. I realize that most people will say that they cannot do this, since their doctor or insurance will not allow that much at one time.

All you have to do is tell your doctor you are going on a long trip and will be away from home for at least six months and you will be able to buy a long-term supply of your meds. You may have to pay a little more due to your insurance rules, but it’s worth it to have a stockpile of your medications.

Once you have your prescriptions in place, make sure you have extra pairs of glasses and also a plentiful supply of standard first-aid supplies, such as wound management supplies, alcohol and other disinfectants, OTC meds such as aspirin, Imodium, cold medications, etc.

If you would like to stock up on antibiotics and your doctor won’t write a prescription, use a veterinary supply store. Vet antibiotics will work just as good as human antibiotics, no matter what the college boys may tell you. (Vet supply stores are also a good place to purchase general first-aid items.)

Once you have everything in place, you may have to protect yourself, your family and your supplies from the common street thug and or a hungry person trying to feed his own family. The best way to do this is to not let anyone know about your survival plan.

This includes your vicar and church members, Police, government workers, next of kin, and anyone else you would normally trust with your life. Trust no one now and you won’t be forced defend against them later.
While that may sound a little extreme, but I’ve seen on TV people in countries with food shortages turn on each other to survive.

The bottom line is that while we may fantasize about defending our family and food with weapons, most people are not mentally or physically prepared to do it. My suggestion is to have a good home defence shotgun. Backstop that with enough ammo and you’ll be good to go. Survival works best when it’s kept simple and basic.

Making your home a hard target is something you can do now. Installing a good alarm system that works on battery backup and is local (meaning the alarm system notifies the homeowner instead of some rent-a-cop monitoring a desk at an alarm centre) is a good start. 

Outdoor infrared security cameras are also great early warning devices for the occupants. Strategically placed perimeter fencing and hedge rows with aggressive plants such as Prickly Pear will make it more difficult for the criminal element to operate against your home.

Burglar bars on windows (that can be opened from the inside for escape) and steel entrance doors with dead bolts are other additions that make your house a less-than-desirable target. 

You have to remember that the common thug is not that smart.

He’s looking for easy, quick access to hit a target and escape. If you do not live in an area that can be modified to be defendable, then move to a better location. If you cannot move, then map out and practice an escape and evasion plan before a crisis occurs.

How much cash to have on hand has always been a question for which there is no definitive answer? There is no way to predict how inflation will affect the pound’s value, but I still think that in the beginning of any crisis, standard pounds will still be able to purchase items easier than gold, simply due to the fact that our system, at this stage, is not set up to trade in gold.

Keep enough cash to bribe or buy your way out of a problem or pick up useful tools from other individuals. If I had to put a value on it, I would say have at least a month’s wages in cash in a safe place in your home.

Other survival issues that one most look at for the long haul are communication and energy questions. Knowing what’s going on in the rest of the world will give the survivor key indicators on how to plan for the future, when to move, and what to expect.

No home should be without a good short-wave radio capable of receiving the full spectrum of AM, FM and short-wave bands. If you don’t have a small solar charger and rechargeable batteries, then make sure you stock up (and rotate) the batteries you will need when the lights go out.

If you live in a  remote location, then having a portable generator and extra fuel comes in real handy for long-term survival scenarios. If you store fuel, be sure to put stabilizer in it to keep it from going bad.

Also make sure you have spare parts and tools that may be necessary to work on your generator, well pump, vehicle and other things that you typically call a repairman to fix. If you’re not mechanically inclined, then your library should include the books that walk you through the basic concept of repairing everyday items.

Lastly, one thing that most people forget about when preparing for a self-sufficient lifestyle is the type of clothing they buy.

I suggest always buying the best work-styled clothing you can find. Forget about all the cool looking tactical clothing, since it usually doesn’t hold up well in long-term situations and will simply make you a target if anarchy comes to your street.

True survival is about working your ass off. Make sure your clothes and boots are heavy enough to fit the bill and also make sure you have the tools to repair any and all of your gear when needed.

There is no doubt in my mind that tough times are head of us. How tough they will be is anyone’s guess, but the best bet is to always plan for the worst and hope for the best.

Being able to survive long-term, means knowing a little bit about everything and preparing in advance of a crisis.

As previously mentioned, survival is hard work that must be practiced and performed every day of your life. This will probably weed out a good portion of lazy people as being self-sufficient when a crisis hits.

This particular segment will become the moochers, looters and criminals, taking advantage of the crisis and resorting to violence to take what is not theirs. So, prepare now, don’t be obvious or outspoken about your preparations, train your family well, keep your network small and be prepared to face things you didn’t prepare for.

Do this and you will exponentially raise your chances of surviving whatever the future holds.



Prepping/Survival Tips
As more catastrophes seem to be accelerating more and more I am becoming convinced that the collapse of society is only a matter of time. 

The true survivalist can feel that they are ready for the chaos, but without actually experiencing these extreme adversities first hand are they?

In the military soldiers are conditioned and trained beforehand and made to be as prepared as possible for the real hardships on and off the battlefield. The survivalist can to be more mentally and physically prepared for the falling apart of civilization that so many survivalists and the general public feel is inevitable.

Self-reliance also has to do with being ready for the sudden loss of everything we all have become way too accustomed to. 
Experiencing a type of mock realism can get you more mentally prepared for when society starts to quickly disintegrate around you. 

The following tips (suggestions) should help you, ‘the survivalist/prepper cope better when things do start to fall apart.

See what it is like to go without the utilities such as electricity by turning them off for at least a couple of hours.

Go at least 24 hours without electronic conveniences; no computer, no television, no cell phone, etc. This will be a wakeup call for many.

The internet will not be there after many catastrophes, become use to receiving information from other sources such as books.

Spend some nights using only candles and or battery operated lights to illuminate the darkness.

Start storing rainwater and start watering your plants and garden with it.

Try cooking some of your meals using a solar oven, barbecue, fire pit, something not dependent on the electric or gas companies.

Flush the toilet for one day or more using only water you have previously stored, or use a portable toilet.
Instead of throwing away a piece of damaged clothing, try to repair it, sew it, then wear it again.

Take any household item and write down every creative way you can use it.

Find other means of some of your trash disposal, something else rather than the city or county trash pick up services.
Have a fake imaginary illness and fictionally treat that sickness with only what you have available to you in your home.

Gather your family and even your friends together that feel like you do, and see what it like for all of you to be confined to a smaller space.

Use ‘other” means of cooling or heating your home for a few days that is of course safe.

Actually walk or bicycle to run some of your errands other than using a motor vehicle.

Start spending some very quiet time alone. You may have to be alone after ‘it’ happens.

Try using alternative means of bathing occasionally, like using one of those solar showers, or heating water over a fire to be used to bathe with.

See what ingenious gadget made from junk you can think of to make hard times easier.

Try washing dishes and clothes on occasion without using the dishwasher or washing machine, dry clothes on a clothes line.

Experiment by trying to purify dirty polluted water, without drinking it, and see how clean you can get it.
Scavenger hunt. Take some time and collect everything, not hazardous, you find on the ground and ask yourself, what can I do and use what I have?

Take along a pad of paper and write down everything you see at a park or recreation area. Observation skills will help you stay alive better after chaos breaks loose.
Try to locate someplace off the beaten path using only a paper map, compass, or landmarks.

Spend some days outdoors when the weather is miserable (not dangerous), like raining all day long, you may have to live this way in the future.

See how fast you can get your essentials together and ready to leave.

If you plan to stay where you are, thoroughly become familiar with every street, landmark, trees, houses, etc. within 2 miles of your home, walk the area often.

The truly “ready” survivalist should be training themselves to be prepared to undergo things that are going to be vastly different and very difficult to adjust to and handle. By using some or all of these  prep tips now and before the aftermath of “the nightmare” that is coming, you will be more adapt at handling it. 

Add your personal preparation exercises to this to make you even more mega disaster ready.



Packing your BOB
There are a few types of Bug-Out bags out there; I generally put them into 2 categories... They each serve a specific purpose.

The Get Home Bag is usually stored in a vehicle or at work. It is used to give you the essentials you would need to get back to your home in case of emergency while you are away.

The Bug Out Bag is Used to get from wherever you are to your pre-planned Bug-Out location or other location of relative safety.

If you are going to bug out by car, you have a lot more choice in equipment and gear selection as you have much more room to pack gear. However you must also plan for the worst case scenario, which would be having to hump your gear on your back. 

Pack only essentials! I am here to tell you that every ounce counts, and saving even 1 pound worth of gear that you don't have to drag along with you will make your life much better.

Be careful and deliberate in your gear selection, don't sacrifice light weight for something that isn't durable. Remember that what you have is it-Make sure you buy quality gear that will serve you for the long-haul. You probably won't be able to replace any of it soon

There are so many kinds, makers and styles from the plain-jane to the Uber Tacti-Cool models. What should you look for??

Well as far as size goes, usually bigger is better. I would rather have more room than less. I would try to resist the urge to pack it to the gills. For some reason, if I have extra space I try to fill it up with more stuff. Try to remember you are going to have to carry this thing for (sometimes) many, many miles. 

It does you no good to have a bag that weighs in at 1 ton fully loaded out if you can't pick it up. Make sure that you can sling it on your back by yourself, there may come a time you have to...

Take a close look at the stitching on the bag. Make sure that it is solid, and double stitched (at least). Inspect the straps, I like wide straps that have a high load-bearing rating to them. Ensure it is generously padded as your bag can get awful rough to carry when it is digging into your back and shoulders etc...

I prefer a Polymer or Aluminum framed bag with a good waist belt to it. This makes distributing the weight of the pack more even and easier to carry.

If it has zippers, I like large polymer teeth rather than the close-together zipper teeth. This allows for a more secure bag, and reduces the chance that the zipper will have a sudden failure. Nothing stinks worse than having a large portion of your gear dropping out of your bag or worse, having it fly down the side of a hill or into another area where you can't get it back.

I would also suggest a bag that has Molle-style attachment points to it. This makes it easier to attach other gear to it and remove it easily. I would put things on there that you may want to get to in a hurry (like medical gear) and not have to download most of your bag to get to it when you need it.
Now let’s move on to some things you will want to fill your bag with:

Try to remember that you may be in this for the long-haul so you will need both warm weather and cold weather gear!


I prefer a lightweight Hiking style boot, that allows for ventilation and water drainage. There are also some nice swim-style shoes on the market that won't take up much space in your bag and can come in handy.

Bring a few pairs of socks, something that will keep your feet warm and will wick moisture away from your feet. You won't be able to travel, gather food and water or do most things if your feet are out of action. PROTECT THEM!

I am a fan of the lightweight rip-stop style of pants. This is a place where military surplus gear is just fine in my opinion. Make sure you have some under-layer garments available to insulate them when it gets cold. 

The rip-stop pants are lightweight and not designed for any serious cold weather insulation by themselves.

Bring both long sleeve and short sleeve shirts. Again, select a material that will wick moisture away from your body. This will keep you more comfortable when it is hot, and keep you from losing body heat when it is cold!

A sturdy belt will allow you to carry your gear that you need close at hand. I like the British Army pistol belts as they are study, have a buckle that has a high load bearing weight rating.

Keep a “woolly cap” and/or balaclava type mask available for when it gets cold. A bandana can be used to keep the sun off you as well.

Sunglasses- protect your eyes! Get something that is UV rated, my all-time favourites are the Survival I shield from Survival Metrics they are UV rated and store in a small 35mm type of canister.

Consider a lightweight breathable Parka for cold weather. A light windproof jacket is also a must. A tactical vest that you can load out with your essential “at-hand” gear is also a nice option.

Even though you can make your own shelters with materials at hand, it may also be handy to have some equipment on hand to make the process a little easier.

Sleeping Bags- are a nice option, but take up a lot of space. If you go this route, get one that compacts down and is as lightweight as possible.

Space blankets are lightweight and compact, but don't have a long service life. They are useful as a waterproofing method when you make a shelter out of natural materials. I know they are supposed to reflect body heat, but are only effective if there is an air pocket between you and the blanket. 

They are almost a “one use” kind of item, as they are very easy to puncture. They are also very noisy if that is of concern to you.

A decent option for one person is a hammock as they are lightweight and compact. All you need are 2 trees. It will also get you up off the ground and away from creepy-crawlies.
Probably most peoples favourite shelter option is a tarp. They are very versatile and you can insulate them by putting natural materials on top. You can use them from a stand-alone tent, to ground cover, and water-catcher when it is raining. 

They can be a little heavy depending on the type you get but can be folded up to fit in a relatively small space, and you can use them over and over. They are also easy to repair with a little Duct tape.

A MUST HAVE in your kit is a survival blade. While I carry the Utility multi lite on me every day, you would be hard pressed to find me without a fixed blade knife if I am in the woods or just think I may need it for more serious work.

I would suggest having at least a couple available in your bag and one or two on your person you can access readily. From cutting cordage, dressing an animal, making tent stakes and fire starting tools to a last ditch defensive tool, a knife is almost too handy not to have one on you at all times. 

I carry the Chris Caine Companion while out in the wilderness.

Axes and machetes are also useful tools, given the choice between the two I would pick a sturdy machete. You will find it more useful in clearing brush and even certain chopping jobs than a hand axe is.

Don't forget to pack away a way to re-sharpen your knives and tools. A good diamond knife sharpener is the way to go. You can get a lot of use from it, and there are models that fold down to a very small package.

A few disposable lighters (in waterproof containers) are must haves. I say have as many fire starting methods available to you as possible. That being said- keep a small magnifying lens 

Ferro rod (or flint steel) and magnesium fire starting equipment in your bag. Learn/practice more “primitive” methods of fire starting before you need to use them for real. 

Bow-Drills, Hand-Drills, Fire-Pistons (just to name a few) have been in use long before we invented the disposable lighter or matches. So I recommend using these other methods as interesting and even fun and keeping your “sure fire” methods of fire starting in reserve, for when getting a fire going now may be a matter of life and death.

There is no way you can carry enough water in a Bug-Out bag to sustain you long term. It takes up too much space and is way too heavy. 

So keep water purification items in your bag to purify the water you find along the way. Iodine, Bleach, Tabs and water filters. and carry a Camelbak to sustain you between fill-ups.

Also another area that you are not going to be able to carry enough of to sustain you for an indefinite amount of time is FOOD. Things I do suggest you pack in your bag are MRE style meals, Freeze Dried Meals, Emergency Ration Bars, Honey, Peanut Butter.

This is not the time to be worried about fat or calorie content or rather, yes it is. You will be expending a tremendous amount of Calories, even more if it is cold outside. 

Calories are King, and the more you have access to the better off you will be.

A personal medic bag to treat injuries that may occur is a must. Even a small wound in the field can turn into a major life-threatening problem if not treated promptly and properly.

At a minimum I would keep: Sterile Gauze, Cohesive gauze (sticks to itself), Clotting agents (cellox, quick clot) for more serious wounds, Tourniquet, Oral and/or Nasal Airway, Cravats, Antibacterial ointments, Safety Pins, Duct Tape, Benadryl, Skin stapler or suture, scalpel, tweezers, Burn ointment or dressing, Pain relievers and various sorts and Gloves.

Keep an ample supply of any medications you may be taking for chronic health issues. Also if you have a good Doctor, he/she may write you a prescription for small amounts of antibiotics and pain meds that can be used in emergency situations.

Keep a few books (paper kind, no batteries needed) on survival skills, medical procedures/treatment, plant identification and the like available for reference. You can also make your own “Prompt Sheets” on things like water purification, emergency medical procedures... and get them laminated. 

This way they will not be destroyed if they get wet, or torn when shifting around in a Bug Out bag.

Navigational equipment (compass-not just the one that may be built into your GPS or Watch), Maps, a cooking pot (for cooking and water purification), flashlight(s) and spare batteries-I prefer rechargeable, Solar charger for recharging your electronic gear, a quality multi-tool, Duct Tape, Paracord, wire (or other) saw, fishing/trapping equipment, sewing needles and thread for clothing repairs, personal hygiene products, Passport/ID, savings/checking and other account numbers, Immunization records (if you have them), Money and/or and precious metals that could be used for barter/trade/purchase if the possibility arises.

I know it sounds like a lot, and it is. Just remember that everything you select must have a viable and essential purpose. Always have backup methods available for the most important issues such as: Starting Fire, Food gathering, Water purification, Shelter and Medical needs.

Keep an eye on any expiration dates on items like: Medications, Food rations, sterile medical packages and other gear. Rotate them out as they expire.

Don't let putting together a Bug Out bag intimidate you, you have probably done one already. 

Every time you go on holiday you pack a suitcase, it's just a scaled-down version of a Bug Out bag. It just isn't as in depth.




How to Choose a BOL
When disaster strikes, you need a safe place for you and the ones you care about to keep your heads down: your bug out location. 

The basic idea is to get out of harm’s way to a prepared area with supplies and gear which can sustain you. Choosing where to locate this prepared area is an important decision that requires planning

Before getting into your personal remote location belonging to you, it is important to note that depending on the kind of disaster and its reach, your best bet may be to drive to another county to stay with a relative. 

Your bug out location does not need to be an isolated piece of owned property, and if you do have family connections you can leverage, it may be your best bet.

This is one of the first things you need to consider carefully. 

At first thought, a bug out location would be as far away as possible from your home to ensure the best odds that whatever disaster it is will not impact you. While there are definitely some merits to the very remote location, there are some drawbacks to consider.

First, if your intention is to stock this location with supplies, you have to understand how difficult stocking it will be if you live extremely far away. If it’s too remote, stocking it from the nearest shop may also be an ordeal.

While you should have extra fuel anyway, an extra-long journey presents greater fuel risks, and at minimum, forces you to carry a little more.

If your location is very far from your house, you may be very unlikely to ever want to go to it when there is no disaster.

If you are spending hard-earned money on rural land, you should want to be able to take advantage of it as a quiet, natural holiday space, and so if it’s prohibitively far away, you lose that advantage.

If there is a disaster where you’re on the fence about whether or not to bug out, the pain in the bum distance might dangerously deter you from leaving.

That said, quite obviously the location has to be a decent distance away from your main home, otherwise there’s a risk that whatever disaster has convinced you to bug out will impact your bug out location as well. 

Depending on where you like, a good two hour drive is probably sufficient.

How you choose your Bug-Out-Location will depend on further factors, such as:


Can you afford to purchase your own location

Do you have a trusted group of people that can purchase a location together

Is it easy for you to get to

Can you get there if you had to walk

Is it safe from the same or other potential hazards

If you’re lucky enough that you can afford to purchase your own location or to get in on one with some other people you will want to look for a location that is preferably in a different region from your main living location. 

The best site will be property you can purchase that also has access to water, hunting, wood, and enough space to grow your own food. Also take into consideration the security of the location as well.

If others can find it or know where it is, and you have supplies stocked up there is the chance that they could be gone before you get there or even worse taken over and occupied.

Again, as I have already said consider how long it would take for you to get to the location. If you’re traveling alone and have the knowhow to survive the more remote and further away you can make your location. 

If you have a family that you need to take care of you MUST consider locating your Bug-Out-Location closer and will likely have to make it more accessible.

What if you’re not lucky enough to be able to afford your own property? The first thing I would do is find a relative or even a friend who lives in a remote rural location. 

At the very least find a relative or friend that lives outside of the region in which you live that will not be impacted by the same event that would cause you to leave and seek shelter.

Once you choose the relative or friend, talk to them about your plans, and as a start offer to set them up at your location if something should happen to cause them the need to leave their location. 

Once you agree to work together in this respect, you can work together to get supplies and set up your Bug-Out-Location.

As a last resort you can always use the option of Bugging-In which is when you choose to stay put and wait out any event. 

Not the best option especially in a fire or flood situation and you’ll be taking your life into your own hands.



A Tough Question
My wife asked me yesterday, what I plan to do with family members who don’t prep, in the event of an actual SHTF emergency.   

My brothers and sister and their families are some of those non-preppers, even though they know all about my views on that subject.  On a side note, does it tarnish my prepper credibility when I can’t even convince my own siblings to prep?

I think that there are two questions in my Wife’s question, firstly will I help them if the SHTF? how far do I plan on helping, in terms of number of people/days? And if at all, I am going to help them in the first place.

These are questions I feel that every prepper must ask themselves when they start prepping, and it probably needs to be re-asked every few years or so as situations change. 

I figure the answer to the first question will depend on the type of the emergency. 

If it’s a small local emergency, like a house fire, flood or say the loss of their roof in high winds then yes, I am of course going to help them. 

I can offer them a place to stay. I know my food preps would feed the family for some time.

What about a major SHTF event?

No one is perfect, in fact we all have weak points and perhaps illness’s to. What they may not have in health, they could make up for with experience, knowledge and skills.

Bringing extra adults (who you know) into my group would help greatly as there would be even more people to forage food and fire wood etc. and also allow for some sort of guard rota to be set up.

Remember if there are long standing fractions between you and the proposed incomers then stop, think, and re-think, can you handle that level of friction and argument? Do you need it? 

Perhaps joining up is not going to be good for you, perhaps all you can offer is some of your prepps as you decide to not let them in.

Before any of this happens and you are faced with a decision of the heart, why not plan for what you would do IF this situation arose in the first place.

Work out, (knowing your family members etc.) how much extra food and water etc. You would need if they joined your group.

How long that food and water would last and where they all would sleep. As preppers we usually only prep for our immediate family so in this case the numbers change and we must take this into account.

Perhaps the actual question is, would I help in the first place, are my family behind any decision I make? can I afford to provide exactly the same quality of prepps for my extended family as I do for my immediate family?   

If I and my family agree to help then should my extended family members help me financially in some way as it is they who will benefit should SHTF   

My sister and her family live near Birmingham 130 miles away, one brother and his family live down south 135 miles away and the other and his family live about 15 miles away. 

Two are too far away to make it here if the SHTF, which means I don’t really only have one to prep for. And on one level, it is not good because I love them dearly, and want them to make it too.

I think that it might help me and my conscience if I inform my brothers and sister that I cannot be there from them all and perhaps include information on what to do to start prepping for themselves in the future and explain that not to do so is very serious indeed, in fact I would go so far as to say it would be like planning to not survive.

In conclusion I would finish by telling them that I have planned for me and my immediate families’ survival and ask them not to rely on knocking on my door.

As I have said many times before, this question is one of the toughest you will have to ask and now is the time to ask it. 

Gather your immediate family together and discuss it and come up with your own answer then act on it.



Travelling with Vehicles during a Crisis or Survival Situation
In case of an emergency or crisis situation it is good if you have your vehicle in a good working condition and with some basic gear in it. 

A vehicle can serve as transport for wounded or as fast transport during an evacuation.

A vehicle intended to be used during evacuation is often referred to as a Bug Out Vehicle (BOV). A car with four-wheel drive is good for getting around in off road driving and if the roads are covered with snow. Make sure that the fuel in your car doesn’t get too low, check the tyres regularly and maintain a good service. 

Make sure to keep your windscreen clean so can get a good view. I strongly suggest that you get some extra rear view mirrors so that your passenger can help you keep an eye out as well.
Every year over 3,300 people die in motor vehicle accidents in the UK alone. When you are driving always take your time and use the seatbelt. The faster you drive the more likely you are to get killed in an accident.

Never drink alcohol or use drugs when driving. If the weather is bad or the visibility low adjust your speed accordingly. 

Using Smartphone’s and text messaging while driving are other activities that can often result in accidents. Remember that even if you don’t engage in these activities when you are driving others do. Stay alert.

There are combination safety tools with a seat belt cutter and glass breaker that is very good to have in your car in case of an accident. Victorinox has a model of the Swiss Army knife called Rescue Tool that has a seatbelt cuter, glass breaker and other features. 

A Bug Out Bag (BOB) or Get Home Bag (GHB) in addition with appropriate clothing and footwear should be brought along if you have to abandon your vehicle and make it back by foot.
Vehicle Emergency Equipment
First Aid Kit
Road Map, Compass and GPS
Things that help you stay warm; extra clothing, wool blankets, sleeping bags. It may also be a good idea to include equipment to build a fire and some handwarmers.
Some Water and Food
Some sources of Light; Flashlight or Headlamp and extra Batteries (lithium). Chemical Light Sticks are a good addition if you have to make reparations or change a tire during the night. 

A signal vest is a useful addition if you have to leave your vehicle during low visibility conditions like a snowstorm or during the night.
Extra Fuel
Folding or Compact Shovel like the E-Tool
Axe, Chainsaw or Folding Saw
Short Wave Radio or Citizen Band (CB) Radio
Jack, Spare Tire , Tier Iron and Fix-A-Flat Spray.
Adjustable Wrench, Duct Tape and Screwdriver
Leather working Gloves and Latex Gloves
Fire Extinguisher
Driver License, Insurance Information, Registration and Repair Handbook
Windshield Scraper and Towel
Snow Chains (for winter conditions)
Towing Cable
Jumper Cables

Secure all equipment. If you are in a car crash and haven’t secured your equipment it may cause severe damage to you. Even light weight items may become extremely dangerous in a high speed crash.

Some basic equipment can also be useful to have if you ever get caught in a traffic jam. Especially during winter conditions people often get stranded because of accidents and severe weather. If the weather is severe I recommend that you either wait until the weather clears or take precautions before you leave. 

Anticipate that the travel may take much longer than you first thought and bring extra clothing, a vacuum bottle with something warm to drink, something to eat and water.

Make sure that you always travel with at least two persons in every vehicle if possible.


Always travel with two vehicles or more if possible. If you are travelling with two vehicles walkie-talkies are good tools for communicating between the vehicles.

Make a radio check before you leave. The passenger should act as radio operator and navigator.

Make sure to inform someone about where you are going, what route you are planning to take, who is travelling in the party, what you are planning to do and when you are planning to get back. 

Also make sure that everyone in the party that’s going knows this information.

Don’t let the distance between the vehicles get too big, if you get pulled over at a check point make sure to park the vehicles close together so that no one can get between the vehicles. When you park your car, park in the direction you intend to leave.

Don’t leave any valuable items in plain view, for example on the dashboard. Cover all equipment. Don’t carry fancy jewellery or expensive watches in plain sight.

Close all the windows and lock the doors before you go.

Don’t have alcohol containers, illegal drugs or something else that is illegal or can be seen as suspicious in your car. Be aware of your passengers so that they don’t carry anything illegal.

Bikes are an excellent way to get around and really good exercise. I suggest that you get a good reliable bike that you can use every day and a mountain bike that you can use if you want to go off road. A bike rack for your car is a good accessory if you want to take your bike with on a camping or hiking trip.

The most important safety feature is off course a good helmet, When you take your bike out I recommend that you carry your Pocket Survival Kit and Folding Knife, Swiss Army Knife or a Multi Tool. Wenger has a special Swiss Army knife called Biker 37

A good front light and a headlamp plus a red rear light are good when you ride your bike at night. A small GPS unit that you can mount on your bike is available from Garmin; 

The Edge 705. Gaiters are good for keeping your trousers away from the chain.
Checklist for other Equipment:
Puncture Repair Kit
Pump
Spare Valve
Adjustable Wrench or Barbell Spanner
Screwdriver
Helmet
Water Bottle or Water Bladder
Stick to what you know, keep it simple, think, then act.



The BOV
The Bug out Vehicle is supposed to be the vehicle used to escape the city when disaster strikes. 

While some events may force you to do so, what I want is a vehicle that could be used for such a scenario, but also covers both several other scenarios that are more likely, and at the same time works for the usual everyday use. 

Maybe “Survival Emergency Vehicle” would be a broader definition, one that includes the possible bug out scenarios but takes into account other considerations.

Financial Crisis considerations already being a fact and not a “what if”, there are certain points to keep in mind so that your vehicle responds to the economic crisis part of the equation as well.

The vehicle should be affordable. I suppose few of us have money to throw away. Without compromising on quality, buying used tends to save you lots of money that can be put to better use. 

As a rule of thumb if you buy a vehicle that is three or four years old and has less than 40.000 miles you’re still looking at a relatively new car that has many years ahead of it, and you’re buying it for a fraction of what it costs. 

10.000 miles a year tends to be standard, be suspicious of cars that have much more or much less than that and check that the general wear of the car insides matches the miles it’s supposed to have.

Of course the vehicle should be known for its ruggedness and reliability.

Repairs should be easy to make, hopefully you’ll be able to do at least some of your own, so easy to understand car mechanics and engines would be best. 

The model should be popular enough so that mechanics are familiar with them and spare parts are both easy to find and affordable.

Regarding efficiency, this will be a vehicle that you’ll be using mostly for driving on good roads. Maybe it doubles as your daily car as well, so good millage is very important so as to be affordable to keep it fed.

Even in some evacuation scenario or emergency that requires driving long distances, fuel efficiency means you get to cover more miles with less of your scarce fuel resources, or using whatever you manage to scrounge around.

If possible a manual gearbox would be preferred. It uses less fuel, it’s mechanically simpler and you tend to have more control of the vehicle.  In some situations such as when wounded or when there’s a driver with no experience with manual transmission, perhaps then automatics are an advantage, so both have their pro and cons.

It should be able to deal with some off-road driving, drive across mud, snow and sand. Even if this vehicle will be dealing with paved roads 95% of the time, you don’t want to get stuck during an emergency or if you ever have to drive around traffic or blocked vehicles.

 Because of this, the vehicle should at least have the option of 4WD. The chances of you needing it aren’t high, but if possible it would be good to have that alternative. Here we will have to compromise to a degree because off road capability, good road driving and efficient gas millage tend to be mutually excluding. 

Don’t forget that a fuel efficient people carrier may take your entire family and gear twice the distance a fuel thirsty 4.0 4×4 can. Not to mention that it’s much cheaper to driver on a daily basis. Think small 4x4 road capability, you don’t need a monster rock climber.

The vehicle should be small enough so as to manoeuvre around debris, car wreck, or whatever may be blocking the road. You want a car that has some muzzle, but agility makes for a more convenient vehicle for daily driving and when you need to move fast during emergencies as well.

At the same time, it should be big enough to fit your entire family and your supplies.  Again we’ll have to compromise and go for some medium sized vehicle, not too big, not to small, but something that seats 5 with room to spare. 

You might get away with a smaller 3-door 4x4 if you’re on your own but always plan on needing some room later on.

You could always consider a smaller vehicle but add a trailer one advantage would be that a trailer could be left camouflaged while you take off on a mission where speed and agility might be the order of the day.


Survival Thoughts
We not only risk natural and man-made disasters, we risk financial, commercial, political and social collapse. Things can go wrong slowly - or things can go wrong very quickly. 

Without trade, transport, banking or manufacturing, life could quickly diminish to desperate subsistence. It would be uglier than most people can imagine, and in the worse scenarios, you and your unprepared family will likely die.

Do you see your lifestyle as a birth right? Do you believe that you deserve perpetual prosperity? Will you choose a sustainable lifestyle and reduce your standard of living? You may be forced to make these changes. 

A societal collapse would be fast and deep, and would hurt developed countries the most.

Yet survival will have little to do with luck.

In 1977 New York City suffered a power failure for one night. Over 3,000 arrests were made for looting, 400 policemen were injured, 500 fires were started, more than 25,000 emergency calls were placed and four times the usual number of hospital emergency cases were admitted - all following one lightning strike.

Civilization is a veneer. 

Many empires have declined and fallen. Persia, Greece, Egypt, Rome, Turkey, Spain, China and Russia ... and many of their collapses were self-inflicted, not from being attacked but more often from attacking other countries. Wars are always costly.

American politicians wanted to police the world while maintaining its people's lifestyles beyond their ability to pay. 

America is losing its wealth ... like so many countries before. 

America's military options seem to increasingly focus on exit strategies that are not too humiliating.

So what can you do? An economic collapse will likely hurt the richest countries most, although many if not all other countries will be affected. Survival in any country will require broadly similar strategies.

Decide to live - choose to survive!


Be prepared - most people will do nothing!


Get yourself healthy and understand the risks!


Learn what to do before, during and after a collapse!


Read, read, read! Perhaps start with Global Research

Your best insurance? Decide to survive and stockpile essentials!

Professor Sir John Beddington, (UK government chief scientific adviser), says that the world faces a perfect storm of climate change impacting food, energy and water.
Will your Social Parachute Open?

Little information about the risk of collapse and the difficulties of survival is available in any media. Despite the risk, survival training is nearly non-existent. Government agencies tasked to prepare for and mitigate disaster have been exposed as ineffective. I suggest that you assume that you will be on your own.

Rule One: Don't trust your government to protect you. You can trust them to protect themselves.
At best, life in the coming decades will become increasingly local and smaller scale. This can happen if cheap energy decreases smoothly, if people act intelligently and if global competition for food, water and oil does not trigger world wars or financial hyperinflation.

At best, energy-dependent enterprises and cities will gradually contract as the supply of cheap power (also cheap food, cheap medicine, cheap communication and cheap education) dwindles.

At best, cheap power gradually vanishes, taking industry with it. As cities are products of an industrial revolution based on cheap energy, expect city and suburban homes to lose value catastrophically. Expect people who invested in suburban mansions to lose their illusions of equity. 

Expect the disruption of urban infrastructure to create logistical nightmares for people stuck in cities.

At best, after years of collective paralysis, political expediency and social upheaval will gradually increase. Your community probably depends on electrical machines, electronics and computers ... how fast will your community die without electric power?

At best, expect populations to migrate away from cities and threatened areas, with food, oil and water shortages limiting movement. Greatly reduced food production will result in vastly increased prices. 

Expect a return to rural values - and increasing interest in self-sufficiency and small family farms.



Prepping on a Budget
We are all on reduced food budgets so Where do you find cheap food and groceries?

Well I’ve found three websites that can Save you up to 80% on food items so your weekly shopping bill can be reduced significantly - yes, really.....

These are Short date or clearance food website.

Bargain food websites have a mix of familiar brands and some that you may not recognise, they all have fantastic price reductions of up to 80% off their original price. 

They are the first place to look for cheap food online.

If you feel a little uncomfortable about buying out of date food, don't be, you probably eat out of date food every day without knowing or caring. 

Just have a look at the jars and packets in your food cupboard. I'm sure that there is at least one jar or packet of something that has been there well past it's sell by date and you eat it regularly with no ill effects.

Of course not everything is out of date food, most of the items for sale are short date food that was over-produced by the manufacturer or was produced for a special market like 

Christmas or Easter and the moment has now passed, so fantastic for everyday eating and prepping alike.

Check these websites frequently to see what their new arrivals are, if you dither you miss out so don't let the best offers pass you by, they really are the cheapest groceries online!

The cost of delivery is pretty much the same as all on-line grocery shopping but as the savings are so large you win both ways - you get cheap food AND it's brought to your door too, better still if you pool your groceries with a friend so you both gain and you halve the delivery cost between you.

Take a look at these bargain food websites, I've tried and can recommend them all.

The first is Approved Food

Expect the unexpected with Approved Food, it's not just discount food in tins and packets. They frequently have non-food items with huge discounts off the original price, some are even perfect for squirreling away for Christmas and birthday gifts.

The latest arrivals have a lunch box theme with reduced price Sutherlands sandwich fillings, Ye Olde Oak Ham, Quavers, Walkers crisps and no end of brand name biscuits and flapjacks.

They are also offering glass jars of good old-fashioned sweets such as pear drops, rosy apples and rhubarb and custard at half their normal price. 

They've got good dates on them and I'll be buying them to use for an upcoming birthday as well as for preps.

Also on the gift theme take a look at the interesting spicy cooking kits in presentation packaging, for pasta, for barbeques, for oil dipping etc. 

Most of these have long dates and are only £4.99 down from £9.99. These are going to fly out quickly so don't delay on making your purchase.

And speaking of flying.....

The Summer Holidays has arrived at Approved Food!
It's not just discount food at Approved Food they have plenty of non-food items. 

They have a new consignment of travel accessories from Samsonite. Essential items such as plug adaptors, digital scales, travel fans, combination suitcase locks etc. 

These are also going to be in demand because the prices are well below their RRP, the scales for example are £4.99 down from £19.99

As always, don't spend too long thinking about ordering, you could find that by the time you'd made up your mind they've sold out.
For their web address click HERE

Food Bargains

They stock a good range of fruit and vegetables as well as short dated food and out of date food staples and a mouth-watering selection of reduced price chocolates, sweets and handy snacks - plus the unexpected items that can be different each time you visit the site.

It's Party Time at Food Bargains...they've got Walkers Roast Chicken Grab Bags for 39p, posh Walkers Chilli and Goats Cheese Sensations for 79p down from £2.19 and Seabrooks Cheese and Onion for 29p down from 49p. Check out the McCoy's too.

Other party essentials are half price KP Dry Roasted Peanuts and a selection of Britvic Mixers for around half their normal price.

They've got Diet Coke too for 89p for 2 litres so you've got the makings of a great party for half the price you'd expect to pay in the shops.

Their web address is HERE

Rosspa

Is slightly different. As well as the eclectic mix of cheap food, store cupboard essentials and cleaning items that you'll find on the other online bargain food sites they have keenly priced fresh bakery, milk, cheese, meat and fish so you can buy a temperature controlled box of groceries that is more similar to a supermarket's range.
You can check them out HERE


  
Building your Prep Stocks
I think survivalists and grandparents tend to measure wealth differently than the Xbox  generation.

If you’re the kind of person who’s concerned about emergency preparation, a large emergency food supply is true wealth. Just imagine a hurricane, flood, or earthquake that disrupts the infrastructure for several weeks.

While the sheeple panic because the supermarket shelves are bare, you’re sitting pretty on a year’s supply of food. 

How does it feel? Why, it feels like opulence and abundance — wealth.


You know It’s Never Too Late To Build Up Food Stocks
I’m addressing a situation in which you’re basically hunkered down in your home, or else you’ve reached your bugout location. 

A foundational element of any emergency preparedness plan is the food stock.

OK, your neighbour has a four-year stock, but it’s never too late for you to start. In fact, you probably have a three-day supply in your pantry, but we’ll get to that.

But before you build up your food stock, a few tips to keep in mind:

Make sure your selections are shelf stable. Canned and dry goods are best. In case of power cuts, the freezer will keep your food for only two or three days.

Don’t turn your nose up at processed foods; they tend to store longer, and while processed food is not as good for you as whole foods, it’s better than starving.

Remember to stock food you will want to eat.

You should Stock dry and canned goods in a cool, dry, dark environment. Darkness is especially important if any of your canning is done in glass jars, because the light breaks down vitamins and protein in the food.

Remember variety is important. It prevents monotony and balances your diet.

Don’t shun convenience. Particularly for the short-term stocks (three days to two weeks), it’ll lift a great burden off your shoulders if you can just open a can and heat your meal, or eat something that’s good cold.

Small containers have a higher unit cost, but prevent waste (which is in itself costly).

Don’t make it too complicated. You certainly can go deep and calculate precise calorie and nutritional requirements, but if uncertainty is stopping you from getting something in the cupboard, then just simplify. 

Use an ancient, tried-and-tested method — trial and error.

I think that beginners to prepping can build their Emergency Food Stock in Six Months

Building up a year-long food supply is a big endeavour, but 
you can do it by tackling this in three steps:

Week 1, build up a three-day supply


Week 2, build up a one-month supply

During the next five months, build up your one-year supply

Week1 (right now!) — Get your three day supply. 

Most power cuts are short, and a three day supply of dry and canned goods will get you through most bad weather-induced power cuts.

Now check your cupboards. You might well have a supply that will get your through three days without power or transportation. 

If not, a single trip to your local supermarket will get you up and running. Here’s a suggested 3-day list (per person):
Can opener!
Muesli mix – 8-ounce serving
Crackers – 1 box (8-ounces or larger)
Peanut butter – 1 (12-ounce) jar
Canned juice – 1 6-pack of 6-ounce containers
Peaches – 1 (8-ounce) can
Fruit cocktail – 2 (8-ounce) cans
Beans – 1 (8-ounce) can
Corn – 1 (8-ounce) can
Tuna – 1 (3 1/4-ounce) can
Beef stew or Chili – 2 small cans
Tomato or other soup – 1 can
Raisins or dried prunes – 2 12-ouncepackage
Mixed nuts – 1 package or jar
Tea and coffee – 1 box with 16 bags or 1(2-ounce) jar instant coffee
Water – 1 gallon

Of course, if you have more than one person to stock for, combine quantities in larger containers to save on the unit cost
That is, buy a big jar of peanut butter instead of several small ones. 

However small quantities can still be useful, like small drink servings. You don’t waste as much.

Also, there is a convenience factor here — you’re looking for a quick and easy way to get an emergency stock. Save the heavy calculations for your long-term survival stock.

I have found that with dry goods such as whole wheat, beans, and rice. I freeze them for two weeks to kill parasites before sealing in plastic buckets.

Week2 — Build up your one-month supply. There are too many differences from one household to the next to make a precise grocery list.

But don’t worry; figuring what you need is fairly straight forward. Just see how much food you need to prepare a meal for your entire family, and multiply that by three to cover three meals a day.

Remember, it’s possible to get extremely precise about how many calories and what kind of foods you need, and by all means do so if you like. 

But if you don’t go to all this trouble, you still need something to eat, right? Here are some suggestions— add your own, of course:

Pasta, Spaghetti, macaroni, are a great source of carbs, and everybody loves them. It’s not huge on vitamins, but that’s what canned fruit is for.

Canned fish. Salmon, mackerel, sardines, tuna, kippered herring. All these make great survival foods. Rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, protein, and flavour.

Dried beans and rice. Yes, there are lots of Y2K jokes about this, and I bet some of you still have some, twelve years later.

But if you store them properly they will keep literally for decades. One interesting thing about beans and rice — together they make a “complete protein.” 

Rice has some of the amino acids that make up protein, and beans have the rest of them. Together, it’s great food.

Get a variety of beans (black, pinto, navy, kidney, and lima),vegetables (tomato, corn, and your favourite greens), and fruit (peaches, pears, apple sauce, or just a cocktail).

These few items will cover nearly the entire gamut of vitamins, minerals, and fibre you’ll need long term, all while providing all the variety you’ll need to maintain morale.

How about a Special canned produce, for an occasional treat, say a few cans of blueberries, summer fruits, pineapple, capers, olives, or whatever your favourite canned goods might be.

Staples like olive oil, flour, sugar, and salt. Buy them in bulk keep flour safe from mice and moths

A long-term supply should go beyond basic survival -- a balanced diet and occasional treats are good for health and morale.

Month 2 through 6 — Build up your one-year supply. Now that you have a one-month supply, buy another two-month supply for each of the next four months, and a three-month supply the last month.

When all is said and done, you’ll have everything you need to keep your family fed for a year.



Caching Supplies
If your Urban Survival Plan is to Bug Out at the appropriate time to a safe location, which may be a family farm or a friends remote home, you need to consider pre-locating some supplies, material and equipment close to this safe location in case you do not have the chance to upload your vehicle with everything you are planning on taking, or, in case you are regulated to moving on foot to this safe location.

One method to pre-locate Survival supplies would be just to have your friends or family stock it for you. 

However if you drop off a few pad locked foot lockers at your safe location, you run the risk of it not being there when you arrive. 

What happens if you are late in arriving there and they get curious as to what you have in those foot lockers or worse yet, didn’t plan well themselves and are scavenging for food or whatever you have in these foot lockers? 

What happens if your friends or family get overrun?

One of the best ways to pre-locate Survival Supplies is by Caching. Caching is the art of preparing, packaging and hiding items so you can retrieve them when needed.

There are a few considerations for emplacing caches. You want to emplace them in a location where you can get to them in case the safe location is compromised. 

What happens if you finally get to your safe location and you see an angry crowd surrounding parked your friends house and your friends hanging in the tree or lying face down on the ground?

The caches have to be well hidden and survive accidental discovery by passers-by and from discovery by people who may think you have hidden something in the area. 

You have to be able to find these caches, months or years after you emplace them – don’t trust your memory, prepare a cache report.

The Survival items must be prepared well and the cache container should provide protection from the elements, most notably water or moisture.

Good cache containers are surplus military ammunition cans, sealable buckets and large PVC tubes. Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) makes excellent cache containers since it is relatively cheap and easy to find, and can be water proofed easily (using PVC cement) and painted to help camouflage and hide. 

Plus PVC pipe in available in many different sizes (diameters) so you can custom make cache containers to what you want to cache. However, the larger the container, the harder it is to hide it.

So you will have to determine which cache concealment method (below ground cache, above ground concealment cache or submersible cache) is necessary. 

The general idea being to bury the cache containing your Survival supplies. Some locations, such as rocky areas, may require an above ground concealment cache.

You will have to determine if you want each separate cache to be a mix of Survival items you forecast a need for, or if you will have separate caches for each Survival item group, e.g..food, water,
matches/butane lighters, clothing, etc.

The ability to make a fire, maybe some clothing, spare footwear, flashlights, water, medical supplies are all items you would want to consider.

When you emplace the cache you will need to record, in some fashion, where it is. It is not a case of simply recording the coordinates on your GPS.

Consider an easily recognizable Initial Reference Point (IRP) which should be a terrain feature which will not move Crossroads, maybe a bridge for example.

From the IRP a distance and direction to a Final Reference Point (FRP) which should be another terrain feature that will not move, such as a rock outcropping or a large and distinguishable tree for example.

From the FRP a direction and distance to the buried, submersed or above ground concealed cache. 

You may want to consider recording what tools you will need to recover the cache, such as a metal rod for probing for a buried cache and a shovel to dig it up with.



Ten Power Cut Tips
This last year we have had power cuts and some of them lasted a week other people were longer.   

Cooking, cleaning, among other things were quite a challenge for everyone.

Below are 10 things Either I learned I needed to do differently next time or that I promise you are the first to go after a huge weather event that you will NOT be able to find. 

The good news is  you can grab a few this week to feel like you've gotten a jump start on being better prepared.

With a change in our weather patterns we need to prepare, so don’t forget that this is car boot season batteries, tents, you name it will be on sale and you don't have full retail prices, so it's the perfect opportunity to stock up on a few things.

Many of you have stored water set aside, but you'd be shocked at how much we really use every day in our lives. a gallon per person per day is just the bare minimum for drinking and staying alive! It doesn't count for dishes, laundry, bathing/hygiene/first aid, pets, etc.   

Seriously stock pile water and store it under every bed in the house if you need to. 

Fill empty soda bottles, or buy the 5 gallon water containers from the store and slide them on their sides under the beds, couches, etc. (hey, the kids can't cram their stuff under them when "cleaning" their rooms, when they have water bottles under them instead!)

Batteries.  I can assure you when you need them in an emergency, the D batteries as well as the C and 9 volts are impossible to find!   

Batteries last longer if stored in the freezer. 

The perfect way to store them is in recycled plastic containers such as spice jars and light drink containers!

Stock up while they are on sale, label some empty plastic containers and store in the door of your freezer.

You can never have enough of these.

Fuel: Cooking, driving, and generator', and misc:
Stock up on several kinds of fuel for cooking. 

Pick up some propane either the little green coleman ones or a couple of big propane tanks (like fit on your gas grills). 

Also stockpile charcoal, lighter fluid and matches, matches, matches! You can never have enough of these and your neighbours will be desperate, so plan on an extra bag or two to share with loved ones that weren't prepared. 

Don't forget the lighter fluid and matches!

I guarantee you; the first thing that people have problems with every time we have an extended power cut due to extreme weather is fuel. 

People drive everywhere looking for any open and working petrol station and the lines are CRAZY!  Do yourself a favour. 

This week pick up some appropriate 5 gallon fuel containers and fill them! I know fuel is expensive, but you will really appreciate it when you can drive a little bit or fuel your generator without going all over the place.   

You can use them for your lawn mower to rotate and freshen the supply, but get more than one and store them properly.

If you have oil lamps stock up on clear lamp oil and grab some extra wicks. If you don't have an oil lamp consider buying one or two. 

It helps to light up larger rooms like your family room in the evenings, when it's too early to go to bed and your' all hanging out together.   

Also stock up on long burning emergency candles. ( During power outages, we keep one burning in the bathroom in a safe spot.  We have no window so it's pitch dark, for sure in the middle of the night, so you can see to use the bathroom.

Add some canned dinners/proteins to your pantry:  Take a second look at the food in your pantry. During emergencies cans of food that can be heated and served are a really a huge stress reducer.

So many of us are avoiding those premade convenience foods, but  in a week or more with no power you will come to appreciate the simplicity of opening a can of something for dinner or lunch.

So add some canned hash, chili, ravioli, stews, etc. to your pantry.  I recommend, that you plan a day's worth of emergency food and store them altogether in a gallon sized ziplock bag and label them and set them in your panty.

Also make sure to have powdered milk and canned gravy. Canned gravy sure can make a lot of dry ingredients like rice and potatoes taste a lot better! 

Don't underestimate the power of canned gravy for your mental health!

During world war II cooking oil was in such demand that  you could trade a quart of it for a ton of other foods and supplies! Without it you are forced to boil just about everything. Store some cooking oils away. 

You will not regret it!

Besides fuel, the next thing to disappear like in a matter of seconds at every store in town after a disaster is ice. If at all possible store some bags of ice in a deep freeze. 

If you don't have a large separate freezer, try to store a few gallon sized freezer bags with extra ice and also identify the closest convenience store to you and keep some reserved cash on hand to run as quickly as you can to get some. 

It will help keep your food in your fridge or in the case of a case diabetic type one patient the insulin cold.

Hand operated can openers, hand operated rechargers for phones (as well as car chargers for phones) and wind up flashlights and radios, even duct tape to seal windows. along with a tarp, to duct tape and close off rooms  can help retain heat in the winter. 

If you had a power cut in the hight of Summer the heat and humidity would be awful! 

Being too hot makes you sooooo cranky!!!!! 

Especially if you don't have a generator, invest now in a few battery operated fans. In the camping shops there should be some that are small but standalone so you can set them by your bed, etc. 

Also a heat source such as a propane heater for winter, may be in a sale now that winter's over. Seriously buy them this week.  
The peace of mind is priceless.

Prepare an emergency message command centre out of your area or county even, if possible.   

When an a very bad thunderstorm hit local mobile phone towers were so jammed with calls that no one could reach their loved ones to check on each other.

I couldn’t call my son and actually found it much easier to call my uncle and aunt down south. 

Often times long distance calls work better than local ones during an emergency.   So, decide on a common friend or family members, preferably in a different county that can be your message relay centre. 

Program that number into your children, spouses, parents, etc. phones. ( put them on the schools emergency contact list on the child's records)  whom everyone has the number to and can leave a message on how they are and where they are.

More precious than gold maybe in an extended emergency is toilet paper. You could not possibly store too much of this (or fuel, water ,or food).   

You may need to share some with neighbours. Oh, and stash some extra feminine supplies, diapers, wipes, etc. specifically put these in a closet for an emergency.

Tooth paste, soaps, etc. Deodorant, hand wash. Grab some extra's nothing makes you feel more human than feeling clean.

When power outages hit for an extended period you can't run to the bank or ATM'S! For heaven's sake even though times are tight, next time the check-out operator asks you if you need extra cash when you use your card, say yes and tuck a £20 note away for emergencies.  

Start a small fund no matter how small. Even a £1 a week is better than no cash at all when you need it! Do it!

Pick up some, games: Like cards, battleship, etc., books (especially ones that take you to another place like fantasy, mystery, etc.), simple crafts (playdoh etc) and put them away, so they are new and fun during an extended power cut



UK Rules on Wild Camping
Camping in a camp site is fine, but there are many who want to get even closer to nature. 

They enjoy wild camping, which is pretty much what it says on the tin, camping away from civilisation, and without the modern conveniences of the camp site.

It’s not for wimps, since this is real 'roughing it', but those who have the taste absolutely love it. 

The thing to remember, though, is that all the land in the United Kingdom is owned by someone, meaning that there are laws that apply to wild camping, those that apply in England and Wales, and different ones in force in Scotland.

Wild Camping In England and Wales

For the most part there’s little problem with wild camping in England and Wales, although if you’re going to be relatively close to a farm, you should make sure you’re above the intake walls, and it’s probably best not to advertise your presence. 

In theory the farmer could tell you to move from his land, but as long as you’re being careful and responsible, there should be no problem.

Generally wild camping is quite acceptable if you’re more than half a day’s hike from a camp site, although, within the UK, that’s generally unlikely.

Within the National Parks, wild camping is a right. However, there are certain limitations. 

It has to be on access land (and not all land in a National Park is access land), more than 100 metres from a road, and you must use a tent, not a caravan – for pretty obvious reasons. 

But in Dartmoor the right allowing wild camping is enshrined in an amendment to the Countryside Act of 1949.


There will also be exceptions at times. In the Peak District, for example, wild camping has often been banned when the moors are dry to avoid the danger of fires which can be difficult to put out and can easily destroy acres of land.

When wild camping, you do need to observe good camping etiquette, by leaving the land just as you found it, taking all litter with you, making sure there’s only a small group of you, and ensuring that your toilet is more than 30 metres from any water, taking care to carefully bury your toilet waste – so be sure you have a small digging implement with you. 

You should never spend more than two nights in the same camp, whether on private or National Park land.

Wild Camping In Scotland

New laws about wild camping in Scotland came into effect in 2005, and set out exactly where it’s permissible to camp. 

What it largely boils down to is that wild camping is fine except in building sites, schools (and their grounds), around houses, in areas where admission is charged, quarries, golf courses, sports fields (but only when they’re in use), and around buildings. 

You also need to be more than 100 metres from a road (there are exceptions here with sites close to lochs, for instance, that have traditionally been used for camping but might be close to roads).

Where no access rights exist, wild camping is not permitted without specific permission, so you need to be very aware of where you are and what kind of land it is before trying to set up camp. 

You should not exceed two, or at most three, nights in any one spot.



Training to Survive
You will need to build up your physical abilities to be able to survive when SHTF. 

If you have never really carried a full Bergen before then prepare your body for the challenges that lie ahead and start out slowly.

If you are a great swimmer and you think that you are in great condition and could easily hike for hours on end, you can be wrong. 

Hiking up- and hiking downhill on varying terrains and conditions are pretty specific fitness exercises that strain your body in ways that it may not be used to. 

Even if you are used to walking, strapping a 30-pound backpack will suddenly change your entire experience.

The key to training yourself lies in slow but steady progress. There is no fun in draining yourself to the point of collapse. 

Remember that we are walking for with a purpose so it is alright to push your boundaries but do not go too far. 

Make sure to set obtainable and measurable goals. Here are some suggested schedules when you're training for bugging out on foot.

Start off by making small 2-4 km (1-3 miles) hikes on regular intervals (1-2 times per week) under not too challenging conditions and without a backpack. 

Do it near your own home so you can make sure that you are able to be back before sunset.

Steadily increase the length of your hikes until you are able to comfortably make a 15km (9 miles) hike.

On your 15km hikes, you will most likely already be carrying a small day pack with some snacks and drinks. 

Now work on increasing the weight of your load by adding more equipment or food/drinks.

Steadily increase the weight of your expedition pack until you are able to comfortably finish a 15km hike with 10kg (22lb.) backpack.

At this stage, you are set to go on basic day hikes and you can train yourself in more challenging terrains and greater vertical gains.

From this point on, you should steadily increase your distance and the weight and size of your pack. With the proper training, you should be able to carry up to 25-30% of your body weight as Backpack Load.

There is a big difference between hiking on flat terrain and having to deal with uphill- and downhill walking. Steadily increase the number of vertical meters you gain on your day hikes.

Walking for consecutive days is very different from single day hikes with periods of rest between them. Consecutive hikes bring the added challenges of possible blisters, muscle aches and skin irritation. 

Train yourself by increasing the number of consecutive Hiking days.

This training routine should increase your overall fitness level and will get your body adjusted for bugging out.



UK Government Advice on What to do in an Emergency

If there is an emergency, you should:

Call 999 if your or someone else’s life is in danger follow the advice local emergency responders giver you think before you act never put yourself or others in unnecessary danger try to get to a safe place if possible – this may not be your home
Check for injuries – remember to help yourself before attempting to help others try to reassure others around you

Go in, stay in, tune in

If you are not involved in the incident, but are close by or believe you may be in danger, you should: go inside and stay away from doors and windows stay inside for as long as it is safe to do so tune in to your local radio, TV and internet news channels - local emergency responders (eg police and fire services) will use these to give you information.

There may be times when you should not 'go in', for example if there is a fire, or the emergency services tell you not to.

What you can do to prepare for an emergency
Steps you can take to make yourself and your family better prepared for emergencies are to:

Know how to tune in to your local radio (you may want to get a wind-up radio because it wouldn’t need new batteries during a power cut) plan how your family will stay in contact in an emergency and write down their contact details.

Consider where your household might meet in an emergency, especially as your phone might not be working be prepared to turn off electrical appliances – if there is a power cut and several appliances restart at once when the power is back on, they may overload the system gather essential items which you might need in an emergency.

Find out about emergency arrangements in your community, workplace, or children’s school speak to your neighbours and friends and see if you can help them prepare for emergencies
Consider making arrangements for your pets in an emergency

You can also prepare for or prevent certain emergencies by:

Identifying risks in your home and how you might make it safer

Identifying risks in your local area and how you might reduce their impacts

Advice on preventing different types of emergencies

Preparing for emergencies wherever you are

Understanding risks and how the UK is preparing for emergencies

Learning first aid could give you the skills to help relatives, friends and other people who need help during an emergency. If you see someone in need of first aid, you should try to:

keep calm and look for any dangers to yourself or the injured person find out what happened find out how many casualties there are  look to see if there is anyone around who can help call 999 as soon as you can

Helping your neighbours and community

You can help prevent certain emergencies and accidents in your community by doing things like keeping pavements clear during icy weather and checking on neighbours.

You can use any practical skills you have to prevent or help with an emergency. If, for example, you are a tree surgeon, you can help clear fallen trees after a storm.

Understanding the emotional impact of emergencies
Emergencies can have tragic consequences. 

Losing loved ones, homes and precious possessions are just some of the ways people can be affected by emergencies. 

The emotional and physical stress of these incidents shouldn’t be underestimated – people need to recover in their own way and at their own pace.

The emergency response to an incident must first be to save lives. But those providing support during an emergency should also be mindful of how they give practical and emotional help. 

Appropriate social support from family, friends and professionals soon after an incident may make it less likely that people affected will develop mental health conditions.

Knowing the risks

You may know about some emergencies before they affect you. For example, you may get news beforehand about things like floods and severe weather or disease outbreaks. 

You may also get warnings about strikes and industrial action, which can cause interruptions to utility supplies and food or fuel deliveries.

Some incidents are impossible to predict and happen without warning - for example, a terrorist attack or an industrial accident. Industrial accidents can cause problems with fuel and energy supply, the release of dangerous materials, or even major explosions and fires.

Incidents like organised crime and ‘cyber attacks’ (attacks on computer systems) can also cause serious problems.

The UK will continue to be a target for threats of all kinds. Emergencies may happen in a small area but could affect a larger area – for example, disruption to the supply of energy, fuel, telecommunications and transport networks. 
Further information on what to do is available at http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/index.htm



Grow your own Grub
Domestic rabbits are highly valued for their low fat, low cholesterol and high quality protein. 

Rabbit meat compares very favourably to chicken, turkey and some fish for its beneficial health virtues and its palatability.
3 to 4 litters of 5 to 10 young can be thrown by a healthy, mature female (doe) each year. 

One male (buck) can service up to twenty to thirty does, but in order to keep the gene pool healthy, you should have one buck for each 5 does.

Make sure you keep records of which does are bred by which bucks, and keep rotating the animals to keep the gene pool as large as possible.

One good breed is the Flemish Giant. The young from this breed will be ready to butcher at 3 months, yielding a very tender meat. 

Most consider the Flemish Giant unsuitable for a meat rabbit, due to the meat to bone ratio, also the amount of food consumed to meat ratio. 

It is okay to cross with a New Zealand for meat production.
Get the right pen. The pen should be a minimum of 5 feet by 6 feet for this large breed, but slightly smaller for the smaller breeds. 

Rabbits need space! The floor should be made of a sturdy wire mesh with about 3/4 inch square holes to accommodate droppings and urine. 

Do give the rabbit someplace else to stand, however.

Standing on wire full time can hurt a rabbit's feet. A full tray or box the full size of the floor of the pen with all four sides about 2 1/2 inches high should be slid under the pen to catch the animal waste. 

This tray should be emptied once per week and rinsed with a disinfectant. Be careful when using bleach, as it will react with the urine and give off a harmful gas!

A solid compartment about 1 1/2 feet long and 1 1/2 feet wide should be included in the pen to give the doe privacy while she is having her young. 

This will keep mortality of the young down to a great extent. 

Be sure there is plenty of dried hay in the pen when she is "due”. 

Know that female rabbits will conceive at any time they have an "encounter" with a buck. There is no set oestrous period.

The young should be separated from the mother at about 6 weeks.

The doe is ready for breeding immediately after separation from her young.

The rabbit pregnancy period is 28-30 days, with the doe able to mate within hours of giving birth.

Rabbits reach maturity somewhere between 6 and 10 months of age depending on the breed. Smaller breeds mature quicker than larger ones.

The following breeds will weigh approximately this much when fully mature; 
Netherland Dwarf 2 1/2 lbs., Jersey Wooley 3 1/2 lbs., Holland Lop 4 lbs., Mini-Rex 4 1/2lbs., Dutch 5 1/2 lbs., Havana 5 1/2 lbs., Florida White 6 lbs., Mini Lop 6 1/2lbs., Rex 9 lbs., Palomino, 10 lbs., Satin 11 lbs., New Zealand 11 lbs., French Lop 12 lbs., Flemish Giant 13+ lbs.

So why not hop on down to your nearest breeder and enjoy a great source of tasty food.




When The Bug Out Bag Runs Out – What To Do After 72 Hours?
So you’ve had to abandon your home or BOL (or was not at it when the fan blades turned brown) and now you’re on the last day of your bug out bag, what now? 

The first thing you should do is STOP and take a minute to reflect.


Check through your bag and see what’s still useful and what’s low or gone. 

For the most part everything inside your bag will last for weeks or even months if it has to. Your fire starter should still be in good shape, your emergency blankets are ok, you still have a tent….but what about your food and water? AAH yes! 

These are the real dangers.

You still have heat, shelter, and light but without food and water, especially water, you will die all warm and toasty.

Without food you’ll begin to feel hungry and run down in a day or two but you’re still ok for about another three weeks. 

Assuming you have a destination you’re trying to reach where you can resupply you won’t starve if you make it there in time.

Without water however you’re in much worse shape. You have 2-3 days before your body shuts down and you eventually die on about the 4th day. 

I have heard stores of people living 5 days, and even 7 without water but the average and the rule of thumb is 3 days.

Examine your surroundings and weight your options.  

If your goal is to get where ever you’re going and you know for sure that you can reach it in 1-2 days, then start marching. 

Don’t stop except to rest at night. Try to conserve all the water you can by not sweating.

If you don’t have a place to go or you’re more than 2-3 days out for a BOL, then you need to start looking for water. 

If you’re in the wilderness look and listen for signs of water and head in that direction. 

Signs can be green spots of vegetation in the distance (you may have to do for it), naturally occurring valleys between hills, or something as obvious as a creek bed.

If your survival scenario puts you in an arid environment such as a desert you should start planning now for your water, not after the shtf. 

Have a plan and a place to go and carry enough water to get you there otherwise you will surely die. If possible drive the area now while you can think and plan things out. 

It may be possible to cache some extra supplies in a hidden spot along your path, but you have to do this beforehand.

If you’re in an urban environment (which most will be) remember that there is probably water all around you, although it may not be drinkable. 

It would be hard to imagine a house without at least one can of pop or a bottle of water somewhere inside. Hopefully you will find someone who can spare a bit.

Spigots on houses (beware the owners), ditches, man-made lakes, and swimming pools are all great sources. 

If all hell has truly broke loose then take refuge inside of an abandoned house and look for water in water heaters, the BACK of toilets (not the bowl), and sink traps. 

They will all hold some water.  Just remember that this water will more than likely be contaminated so filter and boil it first.

Once your water is restocked either hunker down and build a temp base camp until you can locate food, or keep moving to your BOL. 

If you’re in luck your scenario may be over by then and you can begin going back to a normal life. 

If not I hope you are learning self-sufficient skills now as well as basic long term survival.


Common Methods Of Processing And Preserving Food

Food processing is a way or technique implemented to convert raw food stuff into well-cooked and well preserved eatables for both the humans and the animals. 

All these methods are used by food processing industry to give out processed or preserved foods for our daily consumption.
  
Best quality harvested, slaughtered and butchered and clean constituents are used by food processing industry to manufacture very nutritious and easy to cook food products. 

Following are some techniques and methods used to convert food into processed or preserved food.

Preservation process: this includes heating or boiling to destroy micro-organisms, oxidation, toxic inhibition, dehydration or drying, osmotic inhibition, freezing, a sort of cold pasteurization which destroys pathogens and various combinations of all these methods.

Drying: this is probably the most ancient method used by humans to preserve or process their food. Drying reduces the water content in the product and lack of water delays the bacterial growth very much. 

Drying is the most common technique to preserve or process cereal grains like wheat, maize, oats, rice, barley, grams and rye etc.

Smoking: many foods such as meat, fish and others are processed, preserved and flavoured by the use of smoke mostly in big smoke houses. 

This process is very simple as the combination of smoke to preserved food without actually cooking it and the aroma of hydro-carbons generated from the smoke processes the food and makes it even tastier to eat.

Freezing: probably, it is the most common technique used in modern world to preserve or process the food both on commercial and domestic basis. 

This freezing is conducted in big cold storages which can stockpile huge amount of food stuffs which can be further used in some natural emergencies.

A very big range of products can be frozen to preserve and process which includes some which do not need freezing when are in their natural condition. 

For example potato chips and potato wafers requires freezing whereas a potato does not.

Vacuum packs: in this method, food is packed in airtight bags and bottles in a vacuum area. 

This method is used in processing the food as the air-tight environment doesn’t provide oxygen needed by germs especially bacteria to survive. 

This then, prevents food from getting rotted. This method is very commonly used for preserving processed nuts.

Salting: the method of salting is used in food processing as it sucks out the moisture from the food. This is done through the process of osmosis. 

Meat is the best example of the food processed by salting as nitrates are used very frequently to treat meat.

Sugaring: the method of using sugar to preserve or process food is very frequent where it comes to preserve fruits. 

In this method fruits such as apples, peaches and plums are cooked with sugar until they are crystallized and then it is stored dry. 

Now days, sugar is also used in combination of alcohol to make some branded alcohol and spirits.

Pickling: in this method of preserving or processing food, food is cooked in chemicals and materials which destroy micro-organisms. 

This is very strictly kept in mind that these chemicals or materials are fit to eat for humans.

Normally, these include brine, vinegar, ethanol, vegetable oil and many other types of oils. Pickling is very commonly seen in vegetables such as cabbage and peppers. 

Corned beef and eggs are the non-vegetarian eatables that are pickled.

These are some very common methods of preserving or processing food. 

These all will work only when processing and preserving is done under very strict rules and regulation set by the governments.


Vegetarians and Prepping
I was talking to a supplier the other day who asked me how would a vegetarian prep to survive?

You know that is a question that I could not answer straight off as, as a meat eater I have not thought of this question as I am not bothered. 

Well I was not bothered until he asked that question It then occurred to me that there will be thousands of vegetarian preppers and survivalists out there who need to know what to do just as much as we meat eaters do.

The question I asked myself was can vegetarians get complete nutrition if they never eat meat? 

Well is seems that they can and all it takes are two simple, timeless ingredients.

Muscles, blood, and bones are built from basic elements found in protein. These elements are called amino acids, and there are 22 of them that the human body needs to keep the factory in business. 

The body can make many of these building blocks for itself. There are nine essential amino acids, though, that only come from food.

Meat is a complete protein. Like a bookshelf from Ikea, it has all the parts in one neat kit. 

There is no single non-animal food that packs in all nine essential aminos. Lucky for vegetarians, protein comes from many sources. You don’t need an all-in-one kit to build a bookshelf.

Beans and rice, diet staples since the first folks learned how to farm, each have their own share of amino acids. It’s a mix and match. 

Eat them together in one meal, and they combine to make complete proteins.

Dozens of types of beans are grown across the globe. 

Here is a short list of the most common and healthiest:

Black beans
Pinto beans
Navy beans
Kidney beans
Lima (butter) beans

Don’t hesitate to stockpile beans. Canned varieties have a shelf life that can stretch as long as five years, under the right conditions. 

That is, the standard Cool Dry Place. Dry beans can be stored even longer; sealed in an airtight container and kept out of the light, they can survive for an amazing twenty years or more, without losing any of their nutritional benefits.

Canned beans are much quicker to prepare than dry. The downside of precooked beans is a higher level of sodium, added during the canning process. 

Also, since they are cooked in the can, there is no way for the complex sugars in the beans to escape. 

Rinse canned beans very well before using them to wash away as much of the residual sodium and sugars as possible.
Plan far ahead to cook dry beans. 

They need to soak overnight to soften. The soak time can be shortened by briefly boiling the beans first, but there is a risk of food poisoning because they still need to sit for several hours. 

The elevated temperature is a better environment for bacteria than cool water.

You’ll notice foaminess forming on the top of the water; this is the sugar escaping. Dry beans cause less gas than canned beans. 

Sugar is water soluble, and the more you rinse away, the less there is to ferment after you eat it.

Instant rice is not a special variety. It’s merely rice that has been precooked, then dehydrated. It’s popular because it is quick and very easy to cook. 

It’s unpopular because it is bland and chewy.

Cooking conventional rice is not as difficult as it seems; just plan ahead for it. Instant rice is better than none at all, but if you do the easy prep work and cook up some real rice, you’ll see a major improvement in texture and flavour. 

Nutrition, too. Give it a shot!

There are thousands of varieties of rice. Here are the basics:
Long grain rice cooks up fluffy. After it is cooked, the grains don’t stick together. 

This type of rice is best for side dishes and stir frys.

Medium grain rice is moist and tender, also good for side dishes, and for soups.

Short grain rice is used to make sushi, rice balls, and risotto. It is very sticky, and has a good strong flavour.

Brown rice and white rice are not separate varieties; they are just milled differently. Whole grain brown rice gets its colour from a layer of vitamin rich bran, which is ground off to produce white rice. 

While brown has more nutrition and better flavour, it takes longer to cook and must be refrigerated so the oils in the layer of bran don’t get rancid. 

White has a much longer shelf life - 25 to 30 years, when stored properly. To compensate for the loss of the healthy bran layer during milling, white rice is often fortified.

Some folks say that cooking rice is an art form. These are the folks who don’t like to share the two simple rice cooking secrets. 

For outstanding results, follow these steps:

Wash away excess starch and any possible residue pesticides. Use a large pot; ideally, you want three times as much water as rice while you’re rinsing it. 

Get right in there with your hands and really work it. Drain the rinse water, and repeat. If the water is not running clear after the second rinse, go ahead and do it a third time.

Let it sit in fresh water before you cook it up. The grain will relax, and the rice will need less time on the stove. Soaking is the key to cooking rice with the best texture. 

Thirty minutes is a good start for regular white rice, but it can go as long as 10 hours. 

(Hint: set it up before you go to work, and it will be ready & waiting for you when you get back home.)

Once the secret prep work is done, cook the rice in a heavy pot. Use a little less water than the standard 2:1 ratio, so it won’t get mushy and soggy. 

Don’t boil the water before you add the rice, and no peeking - if you lift the lid, the steam will escape before the job is done.
Beans and rice have been fuelling us since the days of the first farmers.

Every major culture has a variation of this simple mix of staple ingredients. Whether you are a vegetarian or not, a meal of beans and rice is incredibly healthy.

If you’ve looked at purchasing food storage from any number of companies, you’ve probably encountered TVP.  But what is TVP?  And do I need any of it in my food storage?

TVP is an acronym for Textured Vegetable Protein.  It is also sometimes called Textured Soy Protein (TSP), or soy meat.  It is a non-meat product that provides a comparable percentage of protein per serving when reconstituted as meat.  

 It is high in fibre and low in fat.

TVP is made from soy flour after the soy oil has been extracted.  The flour is mixed with water, then cooked under pressure and squirted out of a machine to dry.   

Because of the pressure, the TVP fluffs with air pockets when it comes out of the extruder, giving it a texture and mouth feel similar to meat.   

TVP can be dried in various forms like strips, flakes, and crumbles depending on what the final product will be used for.
TVP is also a great protein source for vegetarian’s as it is soy based and has no meat products in it.

In its natural state, TVP is tasteless, so most food storage TVP has flavour added.  There is chicken, ham, beef, and bacon flavours of TVP. 

Why would you want TVP in your food storage when there are perfectly good freeze dried meats and canned meats available?  One good reason is the cost.   

TVP is quite a bit less expensive per serving than freeze dried or commercially canned meats.  Because of the cost savings, TVP is an enticing alternative that can be used alone or as a meat extender to add protein to a variety of meals.

Some people actually prefer TVP to regular meats.  I’m not a huge fan of it personally, but it’s not bad as an extender or occasional pie filler. 

To rehydrate TVP, either add boiling water to it, or boil it in water until it is reconstituted.   

Usually it is about 3/4 cup water to 1 cup TVP, but can vary depending on the variety of TVP you’re cooking–check your product label for more specific instructions.

I hope that this has given the vegetarians among us some idea on what to prep, the usual rules on storage still apply and only your lack of imagination will limit your recipe choices.


The 5 P’s of Preparedness
Emergencies typically occur with little or no warning.
As a result, many are caught off guard and are ill equipped to handle such a sudden crisis. 

Preparing ahead of time seems like the only logical way to handle this issue. 

However, the fact remains that a majority of our neighbours and fellow citizens are not prepared. 

One of the common reasons why people do not prepare is because of the overwhelming nature of it all.

Breaking up the enormity of preparedness into smaller compartmentalized sections will help you concentrate on one task at a time until the end result is met. 

Follow the 5 P’s with any disaster you are planning for:

Decide what types of disasters you are planning for (weather related, natural disasters, economic or personal disasters), and prioritize what your emergency plans will be by which emergencies are most likely to occur in your area. 

Also, do not limit your emergency preparedness organization to natural or economic disasters. 

Go a step further and plan for personal disasters that also tend to occur without warning (unemployment, divorce,death in the family).

Planning is the key to survival. Having a plan in place to help determine what steps need to be taken by you and your family members when an emergency arise will ensure that all preparedness needs are covered.

Also, having a guide to assist during the initial disaster preparation will help in determining what steps need to be taken by you and your family members when an emergency does arise. 

When planning for a disaster follow these protocols:

Have a plan in place (choosing the location, let family members know where your destination is, the contact information, a secondary destination, etc.).

Decide on the duration of the disaster you are planning for (3-day, 2 week, short-term or longer- term disasters).

Create a financial plan on how much money you can contribute to your preparedness budget.

Keep the basic needs in mind: food, water, shelter, clothing, safety and communication.

Try and find items that are light weight, functional and versatile so that if you have to carry them for long periods it will not be a strain.

Also, ensure that you have contingency plans put in place in case your first plan does not work out.

In addition, plan for the worst case scenario and have emergency I.D. cards made for each family member (including your pets) with current information provided.

Remember to prepare for disasters in a way that is financially responsible. 

Over time, by accumulating a few preparedness supplies each month will create a preparedness foundation that you can fall back on. 

Remember to fall back on your list of lists to ensure that you are purchasing the needed items for the disaster you are preparing for.

Have a well-rounded short-term supply to compliment your long term food items.   

Store your emergency supplies in an easy to access part of your home where natural elements such as sunlight and moisture are not an issue.

The best way to be better prepared for emergencies is through knowledge and practice. 

Read, watch, and walk through any information on disaster preparedness you can get your hands on. 

We have all heard the saying, “Practice makes perfect.” This is no different, in the case of preparedness. 

Consistent practice will turn your life-saving plans into muscle memory. This rehearse-to-be-ready concept is how many emergency personnel and even athletes train to condition their mind and body. 

However, being prepared is not only having supplies, it is having a skill set to fall back on if need be. 

Continue practicing your new learned skills and avoid making these 8 common mistakes made by preppers.

The end result of the aforementioned is simply peace of mind. Knowing which disasters may affect your family and having the necessary supplies in place to handle these disruptions in our daily lives will ensure that all of your preparedness concerns are covered. 

Taking that extra time to prepare can make all the difference if an unexpected disaster occurs.



Why Prep
To those of you who have seen the importance of preparing and have a desire to keep your family safe during a disaster - congratulations.   

Prepping is for those who are preparing for the unknown future, and for those who see the importance of having necessary items in place before a disaster strikes.   

I hope this piece will give you the basic fundamental knowledge on how to start prepping, help you gain an understanding of why you need to have certain disaster supplies, and give insight on where to get certain supplies.

Those that are new to prepping should start with planning for a given disaster and then begin acquiring items for their basic needs.   

The logic behind prepping is the same for those preparing for a short term disaster or a long term disaster.   

That logic is: To be self-sufficient and have the ability to care for yourself and your family independently during an unforeseen disaster.   

Creating a disaster check list will add another layer of disaster planning, and expedite the process of getting ready for a disaster, if one comes your way.

Disasters can strike quickly and without warning.  Knowing what type of disasters could affect the area you live in will help you plan more thoroughly for the disaster.   

Deciding on the type of disaster to prepare for will also determine the type of survival gear that is needed.   

For example, if a person lives in an area prone to flash flooding and torrential downpours from thunderstorms, the items they choose would be different than survival items chosen for earthquake preparedness. 

Typically, the best way to prepare for a disaster is to plan for the worst case scenario so that all areas are covered.  

Many think this ideology is a bit excessive, but being completely prepared and self-sufficient for a given disaster is the reasoning behind prepping.  

 It is a state of mind for many.

There are different types of preppers – the short term and the long term preppers.   

Short term preppers are those that want to be prepared for anywhere between 1 week-3 months.   

It is common sense I would say, that every family have a short term food supply in the case that food routes are interrupted due to severe storms, or unforeseen circumstances.

For longer term needs preppers generally are planning for disasters that have a longer term effect, thus they plan for longer self-sufficiency in the event the disaster does occur.   

Long term preppers have a short term supply to complement their long term supply.   

A longer term food supply usually includes dehydrated foods, MRE’s, seeds, hand crank wheat grinders, and equipment to be used in a non-technological environment.   

Disasters do not just happen to other people - they can happen to you, and they can happen to me.  As long as you are prepared for a given scenario, then you already have tools in place when you need it most.   

According to some, prepping has become some sort of a social movement.  Preparing for a disaster and being self-sufficient has occurred for centuries.  

It is nothing new.  It is simply families trying to make the hard times easier.



Being Prepared
A popular misconception about being prepared is that you are preparing for a total, catastrophic meltdown that throws us all back to the stoneage. 

One minute we're living, the next we're running around in chest rigs and getting into fire fights with those who would take what we have.

A SHTF event can be anything from an aggravating annoyance to what I have just described .

You can move or leave if it's a localized event so it's not SHTF
There are any number of scenarios where this simply isn't true. 

Medical issues, family responsibilities, jobs, resources, quickness of weather events, etc can all conspire to prevent you from dashing off to safety. 

And even if you could, I can't think of a worse case of the poop hitting the ventilation than having my home destroyed or a family member killed.

Minor things like flat tires are so easy to deal with that they aren't SHTF events
Really? Your car gets a flat in a coned off work area on the motorway, it's hanging out into a lane of traffic and the flat tire is on the traffic side. 

As those cars whiz by your head please explain to the class how you aren't in a bad situation.

Take it a step further. Now it's your wife or daughter. When they call you on the phone in hysterics just tell them to suck it up and how "minor" the situation is. 

Let me know how it turns out.
Y
ou break your leg. Not a SHTF event right? What if you just started a small cleaning business? You have three contracts at different apartment complexes and are a one-man operation. 

Now you can't work, can't bill and can't make money. Oh yea, your apartments will likely replace you with someone else. 

Call me crazy, but something like that seems pretty bad no?
Because a situation is minor for you doesn't mean it will be minor for all in your care. 

Furthermore, any number of circumstances can ambush you to turn a minor event into a full blown catastrophe.

If there aren't zombies it's not SHTF

Are you 6? Forget the zombies for a minute.

You go out to dinner with the family. You round the corner on the way home to find your house has burnt to the ground.

A chemical truck spills and releases toxic gas into the air. You have to leave and leave right now. 

You have just enough time to grab your family but have to leave your dog standing on the front porch.

A major blizzard snows in your elderly father. His power goes out and he needs his insulin to survive. 

There is no way for him to leave, and very little chance of someone getting to him.

You move into a dream home for which you have saved your entire life. Six months later an earthquake damages it beyond repair. 

You then find out your cut-rate insurance doesn't cover the damages and you don't have the money to fix your house.

You are on the way to take your oldest son to college. As you pull out of the driveway the phone rings. It's your boss and you've just been fired.

Now sure, those are fabricated situations. But you can't deny that in each one of them some level of crap has solidly hit the fan.

If I prepare for Mad-Max I'm prepared for all of the smaller things that could happen

People who focus on Mad-Max also tend to focus a lot on MRE's and guns. 

They also tend to overlook little things like tire repair kits, quality footware, cooking equipment, how they will take care of bodily waste, etc etc.

While you are planning for your trip to live in the woods, did you remember to buy rock salt so when your driveway is a sheet of ice you can get out?

You know what else they tend to overlook? 

Training. Yea. Kinda important to know how to do stuff, not just have kickass Condor and Uncle Mikes gear.

It’s just too easy to get wrapped up in the fantasy land of becoming a wandering one-man army in your brand new Multicam kit and your 1000 yard rifle when all you think about is SHTF. 

Trust me, it will cause you to overlook a simple preparation along the way.


 
One Mans Rubbish is Another Mans Treasure
Aboriginal people looked to the wilderness for food, tools and materials for shelter. 

Today, modern urban and possibly wilderness survivalists should be looking in their rubbish bins and at roadside litter, in other words fly tipped rubbish.

All these items were found on waste ground. I can't believe I found a hoodie, a knife and hammer, either! All this rubbish could become a survival treasure!

Rubbish in the ocean kills more than one million seabirds and 100,000 marine mammals and turtles each year through ingestion and entanglement, according to the Ocean Conservancy. 

Some of the debris they were entangled in, or had ingested, came from shore and includes plastic bags, fishing line, six-pack holders, string from a balloon or kite, glass bottles and cans.

I have read on the internet about an enormous stew of rubbish – which consists of 80 per cent plastics and weighs some 3.5 million tons, say oceanographers –floats where few people ever travel, in a no-man’s land between San Francisco and Hawaii.

And that’s just the ocean. I’ve found beer cans, black bags full of rubbish, washing machines, dryers, fridges and cars – you name it –in woodlands and otherwise pristine wild areas. 

But knowing how to use this rubbish may help keep you alive in an emergency situation. 

One person’s rubbish may truly become another’s survival treasure.

Think of rubbish as a survival resource. One of the first actions during a survival situation should be to list all the potential survival items you have. 

Don’t overlook the rubbish bins.
Something you might have thrown away before, such as a paper cup or plastic bag, might later end up being your most valuable item, in a survival situation if you have to carry water, that discarded paper cup or plastic bag might be the only container you have.

The same thing goes for shelter. Getting out of the wind and rain, in bad weather, could be critical to your survival. 

If you find a bunch of plastic bags, a piece of discarded plastic from a building site and a pile of newspapers, that might be all you have to work with.

Here are some suggestions on how to make emergency survival gear out of stuff you might find.   

Start by looking at the bins– can they be a shelter? Then, use your survival mind-set, look around inside the bins and think: 

“What’s in here? What can I use?”

Small shopping bags can be braided into a rope. Or, put one on each foot, between your socks and shoes, to serve as a moisture barrier and keep your feet dry.

Bread and produce bags are typically stronger than the shopping bags, and will last longer. 

Combine several to make a water container, or use with newspapers to make a rain hat. 

Several double-bagged plastic potato bags could make a strong container for carrying stuff.

You might really be lucky and find a potato or feed sack. This strong, woven material could be used for any number of things, such as making clothing. 

(Cut a hole at the bottom for your head, and arm holes, and you have a vest that could provide warmth and sun protection.) 

Or use it as a bag to carry all your other treasures in.

A milk jug, litre glass bottle, plastic container, gallon juice jug etc. would all make superb water containers. 

But know what was in the bottle before using it for a water bottle. Some liquids, such as anti-freeze, gasoline or oil could be poison if ingested!

Cut the top off a 4pint milk container and use it for a cup or bowl. This can help you eat your oatmeal, if you find some, and also be a critical tool you need to dip water out of a spring.
Newspapers, magazines and cardboard can all be invaluable. Use your wilderness survival mind set to think of ways to adapt these items to the situation. 

One of the most important uses might be for insulation. Any of these paper items provides much-needed insulation and padding when you have to sit or stand on damp or cold ground.

Shred the newspapers or stuff them whole inside your clothing for additional warmth. 

Use paper as tinder to start your fire and save your fire starter for an emergency. Use sheets of newspaper to cover up with for warmth, or integrate them into a shelter.

Paper cups can be re-used until they fall apart. Take all you find and store them one inside the other. Other survivors will thank you!

Many wood pallets are made of hardwood, and make great firewood. If you have your chopping blade you’ll have no trouble breaking them up into useable sizes. 

Avoid using the pressure-treated woods if possible - some of them produce nasty toxic smoke when burned.

Wood Scraps might be found in a construction site skip, they are already cut to convenient sizes and there are all sorts of other goodies. 

These might include pieces of fibreboard, plastic sheeting, insulating materials, nails, screws cord or rope – you name it. 

A building site is definitely a target-rich environment.
Finding a group of tins cans can fill a lot of your survival needs. 

Use the cleaned and sanitized containers to boil and purify water, over the scrap-wood fire you ignited with newspaper. Cook or heat up food in a can. 

Take them along to use as various containers.

Cut up the tin or metal can with your multi tool to make a pan for frying something.

Unfortunately, this is just the tip of the rubbish ice berg. There are all sorts of other stuff out there that can be used, and that use will depend on the situation and your imagination.

Also, please don’t think that any of these rubbish survival skills can replace the equipment you should have. 

Rather, think of rubbish gear as another survival skill to add your wilderness and/or urban survival kit. 

Walk on any mountain or forest trail, along any stream or beach and you’ll find plastic bags, Styrofoam bait containers, beer cans, can ring pulls, fishing line, fishing nets, six-pack holders, string from a balloon or kite, glass bottles and cans and other stuff. 

The rubbish may have survival value, someday, but for now, please pick it up.

The animals, birds, fish, reptiles and amphibians will all thank you. So will I
 

The Get-Home-Bag

 WTSHTF maybe you are prepared for an extended survival scenario away from civilization, but you have to get out of the city first (maybe). In a disaster situation that might not be so easy. However If you have these three things in place you will greatly increase your chances.

Get Home Bag(GHB)Imagine for a minute that you work downtown in a large city; maybe you take the underground or take a bus to work every day. 

You are in a large office building with many floors, thousands of people, and you are on the fifteen or twentieth floor.
If a disaster strikes, how are you going to get out? I mean literally. 

If there is an earthquake or a catastrophic man made event how are you going to get out of your building? How are you going to get down the street? How are you going to get home? 

Do you want to be one of the people covered in dust wandering around in shock? I don’t.

But I have my Bug out Bag you say!

Oh really, where is it? Even if it is in your car it is useless to you at this point. The car park is at street level and possibly hundreds of yards away. That could mean life or death in this situation and you need to act now.

Even if you could get to your Bug Out Bag, how much good would it do you in this environment? Most people’s B.O.B. is packed for survival with wilderness Camping gear, food, clothing, etc.

A Get Home Bag contains an entirely different set of tools and serves one purpose: To get you from wherever you are to your Home.

How to Choose an Urban Survival Bag

Your GHB should contain things that are going to get you out of the building like a crowbar. Things to help you make it through the aftermath like water and breathing masks.

Things you might use to help rescue others like flashlights or radios. Things that will help you on what could be a very long walk home such as food and maybe shoes.

Clearly a GHB is not a Bug Out Bag. Sure they have some overlap, but a GHB can be much smaller, less weight conscious, have more specific tools, and be planned for one purpose. Do you have one cached in your office or place of work?

Gear for your Get Home Bag:2. A Bug Out Plan So you made it home, now what? Let’s assume that the SHTF out there. 

You have surveyed the situation and determined that the city is in mass chaos and you need to get out now. What do you do? Again, you have your Bug Out Bag, but you still have to get out of the city. 

Do you have a Bug Out Plan?

For our purposes here, let’s assume that your Bug Out Plan needs to get you from your home to your serious survival cache or Bug Out Location outside of the city. 

I understand that not everybody has caches hidden in various places, and even fewer people have a dedicated Bug Out Location. While you should probably be working on that, you still need a Bug Out Plan.

There’s no way I can go through all of the various problems you might encounter while trying to bug out of your city so you will have to plan for yourself. 

What I will give you are some questions to consider and one rule: Contingency. Is your way out double, triple and quadruple backed up?

If the motorways are shutdown do you have an A road route?
If no roads are passable do you have an off road route?

If driving is out of the question do you have a planned walking or riding route?(Do you have maps of your area in your Bug Out Bag?)

Do you have a rendezvous point with other family members?
A Bug In Plan Let’s back up a minute. Pretend you just got home again, but this time you surveyed the situation and decided that you are not in immediate danger but are still not at situation normal.

Now what do you do? A Bug In Plan is for emergency situations where you can stay in your own home but have to rely on your own preparations to survive.

This might just mean that you will be without power or water for an extended period. Maybe it means you actually can’t leave your home at all for whatever reason.

What plans do you have in place to live like this? A Bug in Plan should include food and water preparations first and foremost.

What will you eat since all of the food in your refrigerator is going to be bad soon? Do you really want to live on the backpack meals out of your Bug Out Bag when you don’t have to?

How much water do you have stored? Do you have a sewage system set up? (No water=nose wage: it’s always the little things….) Do you have unprepared neighbours’ to worry about? (To help or guard against?)

Starting out in a survival situation in an urban environment is almost an immediate set-back compared to those bugging out from more rural areas, but with a Get Home Bag, a Bug Out Plan, and a Bug In Plan you are better off than most people.


Survival Preparedness is a process or a condition of being prepared to survive.

To Survive. The phrase could be taken literally – that is, to stay alive. The words, ‘to survive’, could also be interpreted less literally – more like staying healthy or healthier than otherwise.


In the context of survival preparedness, some will describe this notion to its very basic core – like the ability to survive in the wilderness without any modern help whatsoever, you are on your own, life and death circumstances,black and white.


Others will describe survival preparedness more-or-less in the context of living within today’s modern society parameters, and utilizing the modern tools available today in order to prepare or be prepared for various problems that may occur tomorrow.

What I’m trying to say is that there are some ‘survival preparedness’ “preppers”that are more hard-core than others and I’ve noticed that the movement has been coined with two labels in an apparent attempt to delineate their core values.


I’m not so sure that I agree with labels and definitions, knowing that there are all sorts of ‘shades of gray’, but having said that, the two labels are Survivalists and Preppers.


Survivalists are the hard core while the Preppers are the soft core. Again, I do not agree with the labelling here, but the fact is that it exists.

The Prepper is thought of as someone who is fully functioning within the system of modern society, preparing for minor disruptions that may come their way, while the Survivalist is considered to be on the edge, perhaps already hunkered down in their bunker or survival retreat – ready for Armageddon.


As in all walks of life, there are truly the extremes, and lots of in-between.When it comes to survival preparedness, I believe that the spectrum is all pretty much OK, so long as it’s within the law of the land.


Since there are so very many different types of people, personalities, skills, and interests, there will likewise be a multitude of variety when it comes to how one prepares, and what they are preparing for.


People will interpret risks differently from one another and people will be in varying vicinities of the risk themselves. Some face much higher risk than others based on their geographical location, their occupation, their own current financial and preparedness situation, etc.

Personally,I think that it’s great how more and more ordinary folks are waking up and realizing that things are not all Rosy out there and that there are very real risks facing us all as the world’s economic systems are teetering on the brink of failure while the rumour of wars fill the air.

There will always be ‘newbies’ to survival preparedness and there will always be veterans of the same. There’s room for everyone.

Just remember this… by failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.

BUY BRITISH PREP BRITISH
You might want to take this with you when shopping.
It's worth printing this and cutting it out to have in your wallet or purse.
Let's stop the out sourcing of our jobs.Help the British farmers and pass this on

    
ALWAYS READ THE LABELS ON THE FOODS YOU BUY--NO MATTER WHAT THE FRONT OF THE BOX OR PACKAGE SAYS, TURN IT OVER AND READ THE BACK---CAREFULLY!

With all the food and pet products now coming from China , it is best to make sure you read label at the grocery store and especially Walmart /Asda when buying food products.

Many products no longer show where they were made, only give where the distributor is located.
It is important to read the bar code to track its origin. How to read Bar Codes .... interesting!
This may be useful to know when grocery shopping, if it's a concern to you.
GREAT WAY TO "BUY BRITISH " AND NOT FROM CHINA!!
 
The whole world is concerned about China-made "black hearted goods".
Can you differentiate which one is made in Taiwan or  China ?

If the first 3 digits of the barcode are 690 691 or 692, the product is MADE IN  CHINA.
471 is Made in Taiwan .
This is our right to know, but the government and related departments never educate the public, therefore, we have to RESCUE ourselves.

Now adays,Chinese businessmen know that consumers do not prefer products "MADE IN CHINA ", so they don't show from which country it is made.

However,you may now refer to the barcode - remember if the first 3 digits are:

690-692 ... then it is MADE IN  CHINA
00 - 09 ... USA    &  CANADA
30 - 37 FRANCE
40 - 44 GERMANY
471 .... Taiwan
49 ... JAPAN
50 ... UK

BUY 'BRITISH' by watching for "50" at the beginning of the number.
We need every boost we can get!  Pass this on to everybody on your E-Mail Contact List!!
    


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